Mövenpick Hotel: the perfect base for exploring Hobart

There are two measures of a good hotel, I reckon. And the new Mövenpick Hobart passes on both counts with flying colours.

What a view: a room at Mövenpick Hobart

There are two measures of a good hotel, I reckon: whether you could happily not leave your room for the next few days, and the envy quotient. My sister loves a good hotel room, so I send her a few shots and get the desired reaction. As for staying put, there’s that view. So Mövenpick Hobart passes on both counts.

Beyond my expansive balcony on the 17th floor lies the breathtaking panorama of Hobart’s harbour (“the second-deepest in the southern hemisphere,” my driver had said proudly), with the Tasman Bridge to the far left, Constitution Dock below, and down there to the right the fire-engine red ferry that will take me to MONA the next day.

Salamanca Market. Picture: Alastair Bett

Mövenpick Hobart, the brand’s first foray into Australia, opened in January this year and is ideally positioned in the heart of the city. A feature of the low-key façade is the “curiosity cabinet” – a silver-backed hairbrush, old bottles, spoons, whimsical witnesses to history – and the foyer is graced with artfully placed shelves of old books. It’s all very evocative amid the clean, contemporary lines and muted colour schemes highlighted with jewel-coloured glass vases. The mix of old and modern feels somehow very Hobart.

My room has all the expected comforts – baby Nespresso machine, Tasmanian water, two televisions, a vast bed and an equally vast shower (and bathtub), with the thoughtful addition of bathroom scales so you can check the damage. There’s a chaise longue with a side table for your gin or Tasmanian whisky, and good glassware for sampling the wine purchases.

I venture out to investigate the last hours of the famed Salamanca Market, a quick stroll from the hotel. There are stalls selling arts and crafts, clothing – lots of rummaging possibilities. There are also food trucks aplenty, but just around the corner at a hole in the wall called Parklane they make one of the best toasties I’ve ever had.

Jackman & McRoss. Picture: Tourism Tasmania

Then it’s on to the historic enclave of Battery Point, once the site of a battery of guns set up in 1818 to defend Hobart, and full of heritage architecture, including the quaint enclave of Arthur Circus, a ring of cottages surrounding a little park, built for officers in the 1840s. The delectable pastries at nearby Jackman & McRoss defy resistance.

Back at the hotel, a treat is in store. In line with its Swiss heritage, Mövenpick holds Chocolate Hour, a daily ritual involving a platter of house-made chocolates matched with a sublime cocktail (food and beverage manager Jozef will tell you in lively detail how he concocts those). There are non-alcoholic and kids’ options, and hot chocolate or mocha to finish. Later, the hotel’s restaurant, Tesoro, buzzes with warmth and conviviality. The dinner menu is imaginative and colourful and the dry-aged steak lives up to the manager’s recommendation.

Tesoro restaurant

The next day, before catching a morning ferry to MONA, I visit Farm Gate Market, set on a closed street in the heart of the city; there are stalls of fresh produce and a rich variety of gourmet fare, including breads, spirits, wine and honey, nuts, cheeses and the popular sourdough doughnuts. It opens at 8.30 with the ringing of the farm bell.

The ferry ride to MONA is worth it just for the informative patter about some of the Derwent’s landmarks, including “the bridge that fell down” (referring to the Tasman Bridge disaster in 1975). The museum can be overwhelming if you only have an hour or two, but the excellent app helps (and don’t forget your headphones). The immersive experience is intensified by the fact that the exhibition space is entirely underground. Recover with lunch on the lawns behind and listen to live music while sipping hot cider.

Back at the Mövenpick, I make plans to return and explore the whole of Tasmania. Hobart is a most enticing gateway. Rich in history and vaguely haunting, it feels full of secrets, just waiting to be discovered.

Perfect for: Lovers of history, heritage, wine and food; seekers after serenity without austerity; art adventurers; chocoholics.

Must do: Salamanca Market, every Saturday from 8.30am to 3pm; Farm Gate Market, every Sunday from 8.30am to 1pm. MONA, open Fridays to Mondays, 10am to 5pm

Dining: Tesoro offers Italian cuisine for lunch and dinner; also Chocolate Hour ($25 to $60), 4-5pm daily.

Getting there: Mövenpick is at 28 Elizabeth Street, Hobart. There are regular flights to Hobart, border restrictions permitting. Download the Check In Tas app before flying.

Bottom line: Rooms from $245 a night.

movenpick.com