Mango: it’s the taste of summer

The Weekend Australian Magazine’s new cookery writer, Alice Zaslavsky, kicks off with beautiful summer dishes starring mango.

Yum: Vietnamese-style noodles with prawns and green mango. Picture: Craig Wall .

Well, hello! What a treat it is to be entering into what I’d like to think of as an Enthusiastic Eaters’ Accord with each other. You agree to go with me when I suggest giving Brussels sprouts another chance, or trying something new, and I agree to ensure that the recipes on these pages are always worth making. And if you’ve a question to ask or a triumph – or tribulation – to share, my inbox is always open.

Alice Zaslavsky. Picture: Nick Cubbin

I’m kicking off with something I can’t get enough of in high summer: mango. Beyond its appeal as cheeks and wedges, it’s an infinitely versatile ingredient – both in taste and texture. Under-ripe mango is savoury and tangy; over-ripe is deeply sweet and creamy. The full spectrum lends itself stupendously to Southeast Asian flavours in dishes like these, perfect for a balmy summer’s night.

VIETNAMESE NOODLES WITH PRAWNS & GREEN MANGO

1 large carrot, peeled

1 green mango, peeled

400g rice or mung bean vermicelli noodles

16-20 cooked Australian prawns, peeled (retaining tails) and deveined

½ baby wombok (or cos lettuce), shredded

2 handfuls (160g) bean sprouts

2 medium Lebanese cucumbers, halved and deseeded, sliced on an angle

2 spring onions, thinly sliced on the diagonal

Handful coriander sprigs

Handful mint sprigs

Small handful Vietnamese mint leaves

2 tablespoons each of crispy-fried shallots and chopped peanuts (optional)

2 limes, sliced into cheeks or quarters, to serve

Nuoc cham dressing

250ml coconut water

Zest & juice of 2 limes (about 4 tablespoons)

¼ cup good quality fish sauce (I like Megachef or Red Boat)

2 tablespoons coconut palm sugar, grated

2-3 birds eye chillies, finely sliced 

2-3 cloves garlic, grated

1 thumb’s worth ginger, grated

Combine dressing ingredients. Taste for balance – some limes and coconut waters are sweeter than others. If you need to, add more palm sugar and/or fish sauce.

Use a julienne peeler, mandoline or sharp knife to slice the carrot and mango into thin matchsticks. Cook noodles according to packet instructions; pop them in a sieve and run under cold water to stop the cooking process, then distribute evenly across the serving bowls. Arrange prawns, wombok, bean sprouts, carrot, mango, cucumber and spring onion atop the noodles, then top with herbs. Pour dressing over, and finish with crispy shallots and peanuts (if using). Serves 4

Tip: Green mangoes are available at Asian grocers. Make this dish plant- based by switching the prawns for firm tofu and using fysh sauce.

Mango carpaccio. Picture: Craig Wall

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MANGO CARPACCIO WITH GREEN PEPPERCORNS

2 ripe but firm Kensington Pride mangoes

1 teaspoon green peppercorns in brine, drained

Juice of 1 lime (plus extra cheeks to serve)

Slice the cheeks from the mangoes, lay face down on a chopping board and peel off the skin with a knife. Leave face-side down and thinly slice. Arrange artfully on a plate. Roughly chop green peppercorns and scatter over mango. Roll lime across the bench while pressing down to release juice. Slice in half and squeeze over mango. Serves 4

Tip: If you can’t find green peppercorns, coarsely-ground black pepper will do nicely. Lemon rather than lime hits the spot, too.