Lennox Hastie’s mindblowing salt-crust potatoes
The initial crunch of the salty skin gives way to a creamy interior contrasted by the bold punch of the sauce.
“Papas arrugadas”, which translates as “wrinkled potatoes”, are the Canary Islands’ answer to the world’s craving for starchy comfort; their secret lying in the way that they are prepared. Small potatoes, with their thin skins and earthy flavour, are the backbone of the dish. They are gently boiled in heavily salted water (as salty as the sea, as they were traditionally cooked in seawater) until just tender. The true magic follows. The potatoes are drained and left to sit for a moment. As the residual moisture evaporates, they transform into the iconic “arrugadas”, the salt clinging to the skins and forming a wrinkled texture. The accompanying sauce elevates this humble dish. Mojo picon is a vibrant, zesty sauce made with pepper, garlic, vinegar and toasted cumin that provides the perfect contrast to the potatoes’ saltiness. The initial crunch of the salty skin gives way to a creamy interior contrasted by the bold punch of the sauce.
Like these, try:
Elizabeth Hewson’s gorgeous potato and rosemary tart
Belinda Jeffrey’s one-pan chicken and potato bake
Papas arrugadas with mojo picon
1kg new season baby waxy potatoes
50g coarse sea salt
120g piquillo peppers
20g nyora pepper paste or 1 teaspoon of sweet Spanish paprika
½ red chilli, deseeded, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, germ removed, finely minced
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, lightly toasted and crushed
2g sea salt
50ml olive oil
10ml red wine vinegar
Wash the potatoes thoroughly to remove any dirt, before placing in a large pot and covering with water. Add the coarse sea salt to the water, bring the potatoes to a boil and simmer for about 18-20 minutes, until they are tender. For the mojo picon: blend the piquillo peppers with the pepper paste, chilli, garlic, cumin, and salt. I like to blend it lightly, then gradually add the olive oil and red wine vinegar, so that it remains rustic. Drain the potatoes and return them to the empty pot on a low heat, allowing the steam to evaporate. You should see a layer of salt form on the dry skins. Gently shake the pot to toss the potatoes until they develop a shrivelled skin as the residual salt dries on the surface. Serve immediately, with the salsa.
Serves 4