Lennox Hastie’s barbecued Murray Cod

In a world marked by constant change, this remarkable fish ­remains a symbol of the ­enduring beauty and richness of our country

Murray Cod by Lennox Hastie. Photo: Nikki To

Beneath the shimmering surface of the Murray-Darling Basin lurks an enigmatic giant clad in leopard-like spots of emerald, olive and mottled brown. With its hulking form and ancient eyes that watch over the ebb and flow of life in the river, the Murray cod embodies a sense of ­timelessness. The story of this native fish is one of ­resilience, adaptability, and a deep ­connection to the ­Australian landscape.

Much like the Indigenous people who have lived alongside it for millennia, the Murray cod – ­Australia’s largest freshwater fish – has survived an ever-changing ­environment and the introduction of non-natives, combined with overfishing, pollution and the damming of rivers.

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In a world marked by constant change, this remarkable fish ­remains a symbol of the ­enduring beauty and richness of our country and of the need to protect the environment for future generations.

Photo: Nikki To

Fortunately, thanks to the efforts of ­Australian aquaculture and pioneers such as Bruce Malcolm, affectionately known as “the Codfather”, we now have sustainably farmed Murray cod, so it’s possible to enjoy this fish without worrying about the impact on its ecosystem. And with the aim of restocking rivers, many farms now work with fisheries to release hundreds of thousands of ­fingerlings into the wild each year.

The flavour is now consistently better than ever, too, with a subtle earthiness rather than a muddiness for which the fish can be known, and a rich gelatinous texture that pairs beautifully with many flavours. While it can be ­delicious steamed, Murray cod ­really shines when grilled over embers. The skin undergoes a metamorphosis, crisping and crackling like glass, while the white flesh ­remains succulent and unctuous.

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Grilled Murray cod

1 fillet (approximately 800g) Murray cod, dry filleted and pinboned
1 bunch cime di rapa (broccoli rabe), washed and picked
1 bunch radishes, halved or quartered, depending on size
120ml olive oil
Zest and juice of ½ lemon
Sea salt

Fire up your wood-fired grill or barbecue. Allow fish to come to room temperature. Season the flesh of the cod well with sea salt and place on the grill skin side down. Grill over a medium heat for 10-11 minutes, turning in the last 2-3 minutes of cooking to set the protein of the fish, which should gradually turn opaque. Remove to a clean tray, season the skin side well with sea salt, drizzle with 20ml olive oil, and leave in a warm place to rest. Meanwhile, toss the cime di rapa in 40ml olive oil and grill for 1-2 minutes until slightly wilted and charred. Remove, season and toss through the radishes so that they appear as little jewels amongst the leaves. In a small pan, warm the remaining 60ml olive oil with the lemon zest and pour over the cod. Add the lemon juice and then strain all the juices and the oil back into the pan. Bring back up to the heat while whisking continuously, allowing a light emulsion to form. Slide the fillet of cod on top of the cime di rapa and radishes, and pour the emulsion around it.

Serves 4