It may not be fashionable but this lamb stew is made for cold nights
A lamb and barley stew might not be trendy, but I’m here to remind you of its enduring appeal.
As the days grow shorter and the mornings turn crisp, a chill seeps into the air. During this time of year I crave the simplicity and warmth of familiar flavours; I don’t want to challenge myself in the kitchen. This, for cooks, is stew season.
There’s a timeless magic in the making of a stew, where humble ingredients come together to create something wonderfully reassuring and satisfying. Stews hark back to the cosy traditions of country cooking. They wrap you in a nurturing embrace, from the tips of your toes to the edges of your chilled ears, warding off the encroaching cold.
Today, I’m offering two very different recipes. First, a country-style lamb and barley stew that speaks of comfort and home. Chunks of lamb shoulder or neck are caramelised before being transformed through a gentle, slow heat. Then into the pot goes earthy pearl barley ready to soak up all those flavours. Barley is a grain I don’t often cook with, but every time I do, I think I should use it more. I like to throw some greens in at the end to give the dish vibrancy.
This stew is not about fuss or frills. I’m almost certain that each of you has memories of this kind of dish, probably made by your grandparents. A lamb and barley stew might not be trendy, but I’m here to remind you of its enduring appeal.
Try also my lifeesaving pantry stew.
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Lamb and barley stew
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoon olive oil, plus extra to drizzle
- 750g lamb shoulder or neck fillet, cut into 3cm or so chunks
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 3 sticks celery, finely chopped
- 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 3 anchovies
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 tablespoon tomato paste
- 1 cup white wine
- 3 bay leaves
- 10 sprigs lemon thyme (or regular thyme)
- 3 carrots, roughly chopped into chunks
- 1 litre chicken stock
- ½ teaspoon pepper
- 200g pearl barley
- ½ bunch cavolo nero or kale, stems removed, roughly chopped
- Splash sherry or red wine vinegar
- Lemon zest to serve
Method
- Place a deep, heavy pot with lid on medium heat. Add olive oil, followed by the lamb pieces and brown on each side, making sure to get some good colour as this adds flavour and depth to the stew. You might need to do this in batches. Remove the lamb and set aside.
- Add onion, celery, garlic, anchovies and salt to the pot. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes until sweet and sticky. Unlike the lamb, you are not after colour here. Add tomato paste and cook for one minute longer until rich and deep. Add the wine, bring to a simmer, and reduce roughly half. Throw in bay leaves, thyme sprigs, carrots and return lamb. Cover with chicken stock and add pepper.
- Bring to a simmer, put lid on, reduce heat to low, and slowly simmer for 1 hour until the lamb is starting to show signs of being tender. Add pearl barley, put lid back on and cook for another 45 minutes. At this point your lamb should be falling apart. If your stew is looking like it needs more liquid, you can top up with a bit of broth or water.
- Add cavolo nero and cook for 5 more minutes or until wilted. To serve, give the stew a tiny splash of vinegar for some brightness. Check seasoning.
- Ladle into bowls and finish with a zest of lemon and lick of olive oil.
Serves 4