Hotel X: a new player in Brisbane

The all-new Hotel X is charming, stylish – and ideally located for a weekend exploring the delights of Brisbane.

Buzzing: under the Story Bridge is the Howard Smith Wharves precinct.

North-east of its CBD, Brisbane takes a deep breath at the edge of Fortitude Valley before barrelling in a long straight line down to the river. At its head, Brunswick Street is a party of pubs, clubs, bars and burger joints; at its feet, alongside the glorious old figs and incongruous rose gardens of New Farm Park, the streetscape of lowline timber houses and compact flats has been fundamentally unchanged in a century.

Striking: Hotel X

The city’s newest five-star hotel sits at the high end of this storied spur, in a place where old and new Brisbane mix in sometimes startling ways: the sleek sophistication of Philip Bacon Galleries here, a curry house, an e-bike shop and the stunning High Church event space there. And, across the street from a temple to steak and “21 types of parmigiana” is Hotel X, a mid-rise IHG new-build with an arresting white geometric facade.

At the rear of the airy, elegant lobby, reception is a kind of high marble-effect standing desk that requires your host to come around for a proper meet and greet. It’s the first of many signs of old-style hotel hospo with a modern twist: in-room services and newspapers on a smart tablet; a minibar with interesting gins and groovy pre-mixes; an excellent gym and a rooftop in party mode.

Inside the 146 rooms or suites are jewel-coloured textiles on a neutral background, bespoke photographic art by Justin Nicholas and nods to art deco design, especially in the lovely black and white bathrooms. My King Junior Suite, with separate bedroom and city-view balcony, delivers all the creature comforts with extras including Dyson hairdryer, Karl Lagerfeld lotions and a generous kitchenette with full-size fridge and espresso maker.

King room at Hotel X

Yes, the in-room technology can be challenging for anyone without a digital native in tow – try adjusting the lights and you’ll quickly resort to stabbing blindly at the switch panel – and no, I don’t love the sprayed graffiti feature on the room numbers in the corridors. But over a weekend, any fears that the place is a statement of style at the expense of substance dissolve. Want ice for your in-room negroni? Select it on your smart tablet and it’s at the door in minutes. Refreshments by the beautifully minimalist pool that shares the rooftop with Iris bar and restaurant? Not a problem. Lift to the airport in the hotel’s gleaming 4WD? Done.

Bisou Bisou. Picture: Brad Fleet

And then there’s the lobby-level restaurant. Bisou Bisou speaks volumes (in a thick French accent) about the hotel’s aspirations. With a long central leather banquette, kingfisher blue velvet chairs, marble-topped tables and floral settees that settle on the elegant side of quirky, all under perfect lighting, it demands lingering over dinner, with excellent bistro fare and a good wine list of French and Australian drops by the bottle, glass or half glass. Our waiter is, as a bonus, genuinely French.

After breakfast, there’s much to do in the Valley, New Farm and beyond. This out-of-towner likes to get around Brisbane by CityCat ferry where possible but can’t fail to notice the bright orange e-scooters parked all over the place. This hugely successful (and somewhat divisive) version of city bike-hire programs has seen more than 1000 powered scooters delivered to the streets of Brisbane since the 2020 lockdown, with more to come.

Aerial view of the pool deck

And for a Sydneysider, they’re a revelation. After a dash to nearby James Street to snap up some new sneakers, I jump aboard a scooter and gun it all the way down to New Farm Park and the Powerhouse, home of Jan Powers Farmers Markets and some of the best entertainment, alfresco wining and dining in town. From there, the Brisbane Riverwalk makes for a fun ride into the city via the Howard Smith Wharves redevelopment, with its buzzing brewery, restaurants, bars and green spaces dotted with bean bags and umbrellas.

On the day of my reluctant departure, lingering too long in the Anzac Day crowds of nearby Eagle Street Pier, I suddenly realise I’m in danger of missing my flight. How to get back to Hotel X, and fast? The solution is bright orange, parked in a rack nearby. Credit card tapped and helmet fastened, I’m ready to roll, New Brisbane style: all haste, but with a proper serve of care.

Perfect for: Weekends in the city.

Must do: Go on foot, scooter, bike or ferry. All will get you to and around the Valley, New Farm, Howard Smith Wharves and the city. At South Bank, check out William Yang: Seeing and Being Seen at Queensland Art Gallery until August 22.

Dining: Bisou Bisou serves breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days. Mediterranean-style rooftop bar and restaurant Iris is also open seven days, 11am until late. Beyond the hotel, Bar Alto at the Powerhouse serves excellent Italian fare overlooking the river, or have a brewski at Howard Smith Wharves and lunch at Eagle Street Pier.

Getting there: Hotel X is at 458 Brunswick St, close to trains and 20 minutes’ drive from the airport.

Bottom line: From $210 per night.

hotelx.com.au