Heaven scent: Lilianfels Resort & Spa

Breathe in the history at a grand Blue Mountains retreat.

Lilianfels Resort & Spa has a heated pool.

Mountain rain is different to city rain. It smells of eucalypt bark and bell frogs, of clear pools and ancient rock and silence. Breathe, I advise my young daughters as we leave Sydney and climb upwards to Katoomba, hub of the World Heritage-listed Blue Mountains. Breathe in the perfume of nature.

Our weekend away has been greeted with the kind of persistent rain that finds the entrance to every cuff and collar, and frankly I'm relieved. Bushwalking's off the menu.

The great indoors beckons. Nature's perfume is one thing, but two days of guilt-free sloth, cocooned from the elements in a grand hotel, is my kind of party. Besides, my husband and I are determined to rid our eldest of her aversion to "old stuff" and where better to do it?

High life: Views of the Jamison Valley.

The epicentre of old-world allure is Lilianfels Resort and Spa, one of The Escarpment Group's collection of four luxurious, history-steeped Blue Mountains escapes. Reclining along a ledge overlooking the operatic drama of the Jamison Valley, a short walk from Echo Point and the Three Sisters, the 0.8ha estate features proud stands of pines and manicured gardens dotted with vintage roses. Its dignified air complements the quiet grandeur of the surrounding primal landscape, home to species as ancient as the Wollemi pine, which dates back to the dinosaurs. That's a little too "olden days" even for the retro-loving adults, so we head inside the five-star hotel, where guests are treated to the comforts of a more recently bygone era.

The decor is resolutely old-school, in the style of a European country house, all dark wood panelling and patterned wallpaper, heavy drapes and lamp-lit corridors. The Lounge, off the lobby, is enormous and inviting. While the rain sheets down and the outdoor heated infinity pool is relinquished to the property's resident ducks (it is lovely weather for them, after all), we join the dozen or so guests cosied up in plush armchairs beside toasty fireplaces. In the evenings, a pianist accompanies the clink of cocktail glasses and high tea is served throughout the day. The snug, Victorian-era theme continues in each of the hotel's 85 rooms and suites: comfortable beds with draped headboards and pillowy doonas, wing-backed chairs, thick curtains and, in a nod to the present, flat-screen TVs and iPod docking stations. All rooms have air-conditioning, a marbled ensuite and, on a clear day, windows that open to invite in nature's perfume.

The cosy lounge.

In the lobby we let our imaginations off the leash as we examine the wall of monochrome photos from yesteryear. Ladies in long white dresses and widebrimmed hats and men in starched collars promenade along a path that once led past where the tennis court is today.

The estate was the summer residence of Sir Frederick Darley, the sixth Chief Justice of NSW. The original house, built in 1889, has undergone extensive restorations to become Darley's Restaurant, a modern Australian fine diner that alone is worth every metre of the ascent up the mountains.

With a heated indoor pool and a luxurious day spa, guests can remain happily cosseted within the homey Lilianfels bubble for days. We venture outside once, to nearby Scenic World, where a cable car shuttles between clifftops and a railway plunges down an incline said to be the world's steepest. The weather, however, has turned biblical and, much to our daughters' distress, we decide to leave.

But wait. Amid the fluorescent lights and gleaming souvenirs sits a beautiful anachronism: an arcade claw machine from 1936, its carved veneer exuding warmth and magic. Our eldest deposits 20c and is rewarded with a handful of Minties. And that's all it takes. The past may be a foreign country but if it contains lollies, she's there.

Quaint: The Victorian-era theme includes high tea served throughout the day. Picture: John Fotiadis

Perfect for: Romantics, weekenders, small families

Must do: Stroll the quaint streets of Katoomba; drop into Katoomba Vintage Emporium for knick-knacks and the 1916 Paragon Cafe for its period decor and handmade chocolates. Check out a sample itinerary on Star Ratings Australia's microsite star-tripping.com.au

Dining: Experience Christmas in July with Yulefest-inspired menu options at Darley's or a five-course Yulefest degustation dinner at sister property the Hydro Majestic.

Getting there: Katoomba is a 90-minute drive from Sydney or two hours by train.

Bottom line: Rooms from $285 per night.

lilianfels.com.au