Grilled fish recipe
The combination of fresh fish and fire is one of life’s simple pleasures – and Lennox Hastie knows the formula to master it every time.
During my time living in the Basque country we would have only one day off a week and often, in need of a change of scenery, I would head from the mountains to the coast, the rolling green hills falling away to the crashing waves of the Atlantic. A quick swim would leave me invigorated but also somewhat hungry, so I often took it upon myself to search out something delicious to eat. Fortunately, dotted along the coastline are many asadors that continue the Basque tradition of grilling, and where the warm smell of fish cooked over fire would always entice me in.
As in Australia the choice of seafood is bountiful and I would often find myself choosing from whatever came in from the boats that day, be it hake collars, scorpion fish, red sea bream or even turbot (a fish that I still dream about to this day). The combination of fresh fish meets fire, garnished simply with good olive oil and lemon (and maybe a little fried chilli and garlic if it takes your fancy) is one the simple pleasures in life that I urge you to enjoy whenever you get the opportunity.
What type of fish should you use?
As with all good ingredients, sourcing is naturally vital, so I recommend that you head to the fish market and see what catches your eye. Among my personal favourites are coral trout, Murray cod, King George whiting, rock flathead and John Dory.
How can you tell if it’s fresh?
Fresh fish should not smell fishy and you should also look for unblemished skin, clear bright eyes and scarlet gills, as well as fish that has been sustainably caught and killed. Ideally it will have been killed using the “ike-jime” method, which translates as “instant-death” and ensures that the fish has been brain-spiked and killed in the most humane way possible.
How do you prepare the fish?
The flesh should feel firm to the touch and while dry-ageing is not compulsory, I recommend that your fish is maintained dry. When fish is out of its habitat water is the enemy and will quickly lead to spoilage by creating an environment in which harmful bacteria like to party. It is also not conducive to cooking when you choose to grill or fry your fish; the moisture must first be removed before the skin caramelises and crisps. For the grill, it can create a further nightmare in that wet skin will begin to steam and release gelatin which will stick to the grill in minutes.
Instead, take a cloth to clean and dry your fish well, and I often leave fish uncovered in the fridge for a few hours or ideally overnight to dry the skin further prior to cooking.
Should you remove the skin before cooking?
I am still surprised by the number of people who remove the skin on most fish, which I’ve never understood, as it is the skin that protects the delicate protein beneath and carries all the flavour. Even if you’re not a fan of the skin itself I recommend that you at least cook it with the skin on and then remove it afterwards. The rich deposits of fat under the skin make it perfect for the grill or hot pan, as the thick skin is rendered crispy and almost glassy, like fish crackling, while protecting the moist flesh underneath.
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RECIPE: Grilled Trout
Ingredients
- 1 side of coral trout, about 700g
- 100ml olive oil
- ½ red chilli, deseeded and sliced finely
- 2 tablespoons preserved lemon, diced
- 1 lemon, halved
Method by fire or barbeque
- Your favourite fresh herbs torn to finish — I chose lemon balm, Italian parsley and oregano
- Remove your fish from the fridge and allow it to come to room temperature. A side of about 700g feeds 3-4 people with portions of 180g-200g each (alternatively you could use 400g-500g to feed two).
- Light your fire or barbecue. If cooking with fire, spread the embers evenly across the base of the grate and set your grill rack approximately 12-15cm above the embers.
- Season the flesh side of the fish and grill (skin side down) above evenly distributed embers for 8 to 10 minutes, turning the fish during the last 2 minutes of cooking to set the protein. Alternatively, season the flesh of the fish and fry in a hot pan with 20ml of good olive oil for approximately 8 minutes skin side down, turning the fish during the last minute of cooking to set the protein.
- Grill the lemon halves, cut side down, for 3-4 minutes until charred and lightly caramelised. Transfer the fish to a clean tray, season with a touch of sea salt, a drizzle of oil, and leave in a warm place to rest for 2-3 minutes. In a small pan, heat the oil and fry the chilli gently for 2-3 minutes before pouring the warm oil over the fish. Placing the fish on a clean plate, return the oil (now combined with the fish resting juices) to the warm pan, adding the preserved lemon and lemon juice; agitate the pan to create a light dressing. Garnish fish with torn herbs and pour over the dressing. Serve with zucchini and grilled pea salad.
RECIPE: Zucchini & grilled pea salad
Ingredients
- 2-3 black or grey zucchinis, depending on size
- 1 yellow round zucchini
- 3-4 zucchini flowers (females have baby zucchini fruit attached which can be removed and sliced finely)
- 100g sugar snap peas
- Sea salt
- Handful fresh mint
- Zest and juice of ½ lemon
- Pine nuts, toasted until golden brown
- 50ml extra virgin olive oil
Method
- Simply wash and finely slice the zucchinis and place in a bowl or on a plate.
- Season with sea salt and finely grated lemon zest and allow to sit for 5 minutes, during which time the zucchini will begin to noticeably soften and perspire.
- As the fish is resting, char the peas over the heat of the grill or in a hot pan, seasoning well.
- Remove and, once cool enough to touch, cut in half on a bias. Add to the zucchinis, together with the torn zucchini flowers, torn mint, and toasted pine nuts. Dress with the juice from half a lemon and a drizzle of your favourite olive oil. Serve immediately.