Gone to the races: Our pick of spring fashion for the fields

Given its rarity these days, any dress code ought to be celebrated. Which brings us to the races. Spring Carnival heralds one of the highlights of the year for Australian fashion.

Tegan Martin and Brit Davis at the entrance to the Birdcage. Picture: Jay Town

When the Save the Date invitations to the King’s coronation were sent out, the dress code read, shockingly, “business attire”. The decree was thankfully reversed (subsequent invitations called for morning dress, lounge suit or national dress) but it’s clear we’re in a new era when it comes to dress codes. Blame the global pandemic and the advent of WFH, white sneakers or the enduring trend of leggings as trousers. It has all contributed to the dissolution of “rules” around dress.

I believe we should cheer the breaking down of binaries, be it Harry Styles in a sequined jumpsuit or Bill from accounts ditching his tie. But when anything goes – and it blossoms into such monstrosities as “biz-leisure” – it’s easy to flounder.

To this end, witness the rebirth of the fashion advice column. Ex-magazine editors are parlaying their skills into email newsletters while fads of yesteryear such as the notion of “getting your colours done” (are you a “summer” or an “autumn”?) are making a comeback via Gen Z social media. Doesn’t it seem like people still want to know what to wear to look their best?

Given its rarity, any dress code ought to be celebrated. Which brings us to the races. Not only are the colours of the day blessedly mandatory (black and white for Derby Day, the crayon box for Melbourne Cup), plenty of rules abound. Gents are expected to wear ties. Headwear is a must.

Ashley and Jess Hart at Derby Day, Flemington in 2022. Picture: Jake Nowakowski

Kris Smith during 2021 Melbourne Cup Day at Flemington Racecourse. Picture: Mackenzie Sweetnam/Getty Images

And there’s plenty on offer to meet your needs, with new-season hats spotted on runways at French fashion house Balmain and American ultra-luxe label The Row. As for men, key trends include the return of the contrast colour “Banker” shirt and tasselled loafers. The look is not quite Gordon Gecko, but eons away from turning up in a sweatshirt.

The way I see it, imposing rules around dress actually forces you to be creative – to meet the brief but also to break those very rules. British model Jean Shrimpton shocked the country by wearing a miniskirt without stockings to the Melbourne Cup in 1965. It remains one of the ultimate moments of Australian fashion history.

You’ve got to have some order to subvert it. The only rule you really have to adhere to is this classic: if you’re not going to be appropriate then you should definitely be original.

Designer Rebecca Vallance (left). Picture: Jake Nowakowski

Q&A – Rebecca Vallance

What’s the secret to nailing a dress code?

The invite should give you some clues. If in doubt, discreetly inquire as to what your host is wearing and build your outfit around that. Taking a dress code seriously shows respect.

Who is your style icon, race day and otherwise?

Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren – the old-world glamour is so fabulous. Hailey Bieber with her classic modern day style and minimalistic approach. Princess Catherine is a favourite for Race Day style – her Ascot looks are on point. In this country, Kate Waterhouse always nails race day dress codes.

What’s a failsafe race day outfit?

A classic 7/8 midi-dress. You can have fun with accessories, be it a statement earring, hat or shoe.

What’s your favourite era for fashion?

I love the ’70s. Our current collection, Avenue Astoria, is a nod to the glamour of New York’s Waldorf Astoria in the 1970s, where the comings and goings of style icons like Elizabeth Taylor and Diana Ross were well-documented.

What’s the most common racing fashion mistake?

The races dress codes are steeped in tradition – this is not the time to wear a strapless dress, cut-outs or mini dresses. Save those for parties.

How to … Hats

From Carrie Bradshaw’s pillbox ones in And Just Like That … to Florence Pugh in a fire engine red Robert Wun fedora and the chic turbans and berets on the runways for fashion houses such as Schiaparelli and Giorgio Armani, hats are back.

Eugenia Kim Courtney, satin-trimmed fedora, $538.82

Ruslan Buginskiy tweed baker boy cap, $505

You don’t need to be off to the races to wear one. But whether it’s a raffia sun hat or a dramatic wide-brimmed number, you must wear it purposefully.

Marle Nonna Hat, $90

Helen Kaminsky NASIA hat, $625