Gnocchi isn’t easy but it’s worth it (or just make this classic sauce)
Gnocchi is one of those deceptively simple dishes. You think it’s just potatoes, flour, an egg, a pinch of salt – how hard can it be? Let Lennox Hastie make is easy for you.
Sometimes you must try things that may not work, however straightforward it may be. I for one have always learned more from my failures than from my successes.
Gnocchi is one of those deceptively simple dishes. You think it’s just potatoes, flour, an egg, a pinch of salt – how hard can it be? And then, about halfway through, as you’re elbow-deep in flour and mashed potatoes, you start to wonder if you’ve lost your mind. It’s about everything you don’t see – the invisible forces working against you. The humidity in the air, the starch content of the potatoes, the difference between a light touch and pressing too hard. It’s about knowing when to stop kneading, when to leave well enough alone before you end up with a gummy, gluey mess. It is a careful balancing act: too much flour and it ends up dense and gluggy; too little and you’re left with something that collapses in defeat. Rather than be discouraged, rise to the challenge.
It all starts with the potatoes. You need a floury potato high in starch. Boil or steam them whole, skins on, until tender. If overcooked they will be waterlogged, creating a messy potato paste. Once they’re drained and cool enough to handle, you strip away their skins. They are still as hot as hell, but you can’t wait long. The potatoes need to be riced (if you don’t have a potato ricer, pass through a coarse sieve) while warm, releasing the steam and resulting in soft, delicate strands. You add the egg yolk followed by the flour, kneading it just enough to hold it together, before rolling out the dough into fat noodles. A floured knife helps to cut them into little pillows, and here is where most people get precious.
Do you shape them with fork tines, or leave them as is? Up to you. I prefer to keep it simple. And then you boil them. Gnocchi waits for no one – 20 seconds after they float to the surface, they are ready. The result is a pillowsoft, lightly chewy bite, coated with whatever sauce you see fit.
Try also my classic ratatouille recipe.
Gnocchi with burnt butter and rocket
Ingredients
Gnocchi:
- 700g floury potatoes (such as desiree or sebago), washed and scrubbed
- 70g 00 pasta flour, plus extra for dusting
- 50g finely grated parmesan
- 1 egg yolk
- Sauce:
- 20g pine nuts, lightly toasted
- Zest and juice of ½ lemon
- 100ml olive oil
- 20g butter
- Handful rocket leaves
- Cracked black pepper
- Sea salt
Method
- To make the gnocchi. Boil the potatoes in a saucepan of salted water for approximately 20 to 25 minutes until tender but not falling apart. Drain, and while they are still hot carefully peel with a small knife. Immediately pass the peeled potatoes through a potato ricer or a sieve directly onto the bench or a large tray, releasing the excess moisture through steam. Avoid over-working the starch in the potato.
- While the potato is still warm add the yolk, 30g of the parmesan and a pinch of salt to season, mixing gently to combine. Sieve the flour over the dough and bring the mix together to form a soft dough, being careful not to overwork. Allow to rest for 8 to 10 minutes, before gently rolling into lengths roughly 1.5cm thick. Dust with flour and, with a lightly floured knife, cut into 1.5cm pieces.
- Bring a pot of salted water to the boil. Working in 3 to 4 batches, carefully lift the shaped gnocchi into the boiling water. Allow them to rise to the surface and then cook for a further 20 seconds before removing with a slotted spoon and placing on a well-oiled tray. Place them in the fridge for 20 minutes to allow them to cool and firm slightly.
- To make the sauce. Heat a large frying pan, add 20ml of olive oil and, when almost smoking, add the gnocchi in a single layer and fry for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, or until golden and crispy. Do not overcrowd the pan, frying in batches if necessary. Once the gnocchi are golden, reduce the heat to medium and add the butter to the pan. Allow it to melt and foam, coating the gnocchi in its rich nuttiness.
- Add the fresh rocket and cook for about 20 seconds, just until it wilts. Stir to combine with the gnocchi and butter. Remove the pan from the heat and immediately add the lemon zest and juice of half a lemon, tossing everything together. Season with salt and freshly cracked black pepper. Sprinkle the toasted pine nuts over the top and season with salt and pepper. Serve with the remaining grated parmesan.
Serves 3-4