Glorious crayfish are the perfect way to celebrate the end of a beautiful summer
A Swedish crayfish party is a beloved tradition typically held in the height of the seafood season, celebrating abundance, community and the fleeting beauty of summer.
It was towards the end of the summer of 2009 when I was invited to my first crayfish party. I was staying with a chef friend in his holiday home in Öland, a magical little island in the Baltic Sea, just off the south-eastern coast of Sweden.
A Swedish crayfish party, known as a kräftskiva, is a beloved tradition typically held in August, during the height of the seafood season, celebrating abundance, community and the fleeting beauty of summer. Tables are decorated with colourful tablecloths, lanterns and wildflowers, evoking a joyful and rustic ambience. Party hats add to the revelry.
At the one I attended, the kitchen was reminiscent of a Swedish chef scene in The Muppet Show, with my friend’s exaggerated gestures and comedic antics as we cooked together, a glass of ice-cold schnapps in hand.
The food is something special to behold; central to the feast is a mountain of fresh crayfish, their vibrant orange shells glistening in the fading light. Accompanying them are bowls of dill pickles, slices of dark rye bread, rich butter, salty Västerbotten cheese and warm potatoes. The crayfish are the star of the show, cooked in a flavourful broth made with dill, beer, salt and spices. The addition of dark beer adds a rich, malty flavour to the broth, which pairs perfectly with the sweet, delicate taste of the crayfish.
Once they are dropped into the boiling pot, the dramatic transformation is seen, with the shell changing from a dark brown or electric blue to a deep orange. The crayfish takes on a luxurious flavour carrying with it the sweet, briny scent of the sea and the fragrance of dill. With plenty of schnapps to wash it all down, the air is filled with the sound of laughter and the clinking of glasses as people share food, drink and stories until late into the night.
Luckily, thanks to sustainable farming practices, we have no shortage of freshwater crayfish in Australia, which is worth celebrating. We also have species which range from yabbies to red claw crayfish as well as marron, which are endemic to Australia.
A warm potato salad is the perfect late summer accompaniment. I make mine with a pile of caramelised onions deglazed with vinegar; it creates a beautiful flavour combination that balances sweetness, tanginess and depth. Fresh radishes, mustard, dill and preserved lemon bring life to the party. See the recipe here. It’s the perfect way to see out the summer until next year.
Crayfish
Ingredients
- 1kg fresh, uncooked yabbies, red claw crayfish or marron
- 1400ml water
- 500ml dark beer (such as stout)
- 2 tablespoons honey
- 120g sea salt
- 1 bunch dill
- Peel of 2 lemons
- 1 tablespoon fennel seeds, lightly toasted
- 1 fennel bulb, roughly chopped
- 1 small onion, roughly chopped
Method
- Combine the water, beer, honey and salt in a large saucepan and place on a high heat. Bring to the boil, stirring until the salt and honey dissolves.
- Add the dill, lemon peel, fennel seeds, chopped fennel and onion. Add the yabbies and simmer for 4 to 8 minutes, depending on the size of the crayfish. (Whilst a 200g marron may take 8 minutes, a 100g yabby may only take 4.)
- Using a slotted spoon, remove the cooked crayfish and place directly in an ice bath, allowing them to cool completely. Retain the cooking liquid and chill it down completely, before returning the crayfish to the liquid, ensuring they are completely covered. Place in the fridge overnight or for at least 12-18 hours before serving.
- I like to serve the crayfish alongside a little of the flavoursome brine (which is like a light soy sauce) for dipping. Serves 2-3