Giant Steps, Innocent Bystander: Phil Sexton’s skill on show

Phil Sexton is formidably intelligent and street smart. In poker terms, he’s always known when to hold them and when to fold them.

Impressive: the reviewed wines. Picture: Guy Bailey

Phil Sexton is formidably intelligent and equally street smart. In poker terms, he has always known when to hold them and when to fold them. The game started more than 35 years ago, when Foster’s purchased the Matilda Bay/Redback microbrewery business Sexton had founded. This funded the establishment of Devil’s Lair in Margaret River in 1981, its growth over the next 15 years leading to an offer by Southcorp to purchase the business in 1996 that was too good to refuse. The following year he arrived in the Yarra Valley to create Giant Steps and thereafter Innocent Bystander.

Organic growth by small to medium-sized family owned wineries focused on premium wine sales is notoriously difficult, but Giant Steps was able to overcome the challenges. The arrival of the gifted Steve Flamsteed as winemaker in 2008 certainly helped. By 2009 the name of the business included Innocent Bystander and in 2014 IB (as it’s locally known) became the sole name. IB focused on Yarra Valley-sourced wines at mouthwatering prices. It created a cash cow with its wildly successful moscato, then added prosecco, but was in danger of strangling the fine wine side of the business led by Giant Steps.

It became obvious it was time to fold (some of) the cards, but how? In one of those all-too-rare win/win scenarios, Brown Brothers came to the party on April 5, agreeing to buy the IB brand and all stock and (in a highly unusual scenario) take IB across the shared car park to the former White Rabbit brewery site, leaving Giant Steps free to upgrade its rebranded and much-loved restaurant/cellar door. Giant Steps has agreed to manage the refurbishment of the White Rabbit.

Brown Brothers has simultaneously gained a first-class address in the Yarra Valley and a slice of the booming moscato and prosecco market it already knows well.

2015 Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Yarra Valley Pinot Noir

Significantly deeper colour than prior vintages, likewise depth of fruit; the bouquet and palate are driven by black and red cherry fruit of exceptional generosity but with an unusual touch of dark chocolate. Small wonder Giant Steps says this is its best vintage yet. 13.5% alc, screwcap. 97 points, drink to 2027, $50

2015 Giant Steps Lusatia Park Vineyard Yarra Valley Pinot Noir

Superb colour; the ultra-fragrant/scented bouquet is picked up unceremoniously by the brilliant palate and dispatched to the boundary. Takes the concept of elegant generosity to another level with more movement in the chorus of red fruit flavours than you might think possible. Combines elegance with spicy, savoury intensity. 13% alc, screwcap. 97 points, drink to 2027, $50

2015 Giant Steps Sexton Vineyard Yarra Valley Pinot Noir

Shares the superb colour of its siblings; here, generosity takes the stage with richness and tannins woven into the superabundant red and black fruits by invisible mending. A brilliant wine, the lower Yarra Valley refusing to take a backward step. 13.5% alc, screwcap. 97 points, drink to 2027, $50