Finding the perfect winter spot for your orchids

This species of orchid brings a beautiful touch to your garden. The answer to where it should grow may not be as hard as you think.

Cymbidium orchids blooming in winter.

In winter, cymbidium orchids bear long flower spikes of up to 25 blooms, which open gradually up the spike over several months. They’re one of the easiest orchids to grow and will succeed in most parts of Australia. When flowering, potted plants can be brought indoors to enjoy for many weeks, and cut flowers last well in a vase. Finding the right spot to grow them outdoors is important. They need protection from hot sun but won’t flower if in too much shade. Although many neglected plants still bloom, for best results keep pots in dappled shade through summer and move them in early autumn to a brighter spot to encourage the initiation of flower spikes.

Cymbidium, ‘Anna Szabo x Winter Wonder’. Photos: Orchids on Newbold

Regular doses of a flower-boosting soluble fertiliser from that time will also help. As the flower spikes develop, keep watch for snails. Cymbidiums don’t mind being in the same pot for years – you can wait until they’re busting out before you divide and repot them; do this straight after flowering finishes. Use an orchid mix that will provide the fast drainage and air around the roots that cymbidiums need.

Cymbidium orchids

The colours of cymbidiums flowers range from white through pinks to crimson, as well as yellows, bronze and green; there are miniature and cascading forms, too. The Cymbidium Club of Australia’s National Orchid Extravaganza is in Sydney on August 9-11 at Arena Sports Club, Yagoona.

Cymbidium, ‘Valley Olympic Lachie’.

Cymbidium, ‘Craigieburn’.

Cymbidium, ‘Alexandras Fury Clontarf’.

Cymbidium, ‘Mary Green Piccadily Circus’.

Q&A

I like to dig kitchen scraps straight into my small garden to improve the soil but a friend insists this is poor form. Should I continue?

Paul Dwyer, Brisbane

This is a valid and simple method of composting kitchen scraps, which avoids the bulk and visibility of compost bins and means there’s no need to turn or aerate the compost. It will definitely improve the soil. Chopping your scraps speeds the process; add some water if the soil is dry. The Compost Coach by Kate Flood (Murdoch Books) is an excellent reference book.

My Camellia japonica gets stacks of buds each year but only a handful of flowers open. Why?

Rebecca Ho, Brisbane

Bud “balling” has several causes. Some camellia varieties, especially formal doubles like yours, are prone to the bud petals sticking together, particularly when the morning sun hits buds wet with dew. Fungi can be associated. Other causes are salty winds, trace element deficiencies, lack of water, bud mite, or too many buds being set. To address this last issue you can thin out half the buds, with your fingers, from April.

Our two olive trees in 60cm-wide pots are 1.5m tall but don’t look good any more, despite regular water and citrus fertiliser. They’ve been in those pots for nearly 20 years. Should I re-pot them or plant them in the ground?

Sharon Ashman, Sydney

They will be badly rootbound after so long in confinement. Plant them out if you have a very sunny, well-drained spot with good air movement. Check the soil pH and add lime if needed to bring the pH up to about 7. Or you can re-pot them. Either way, you need to free up the compacted rootball by cutting off the worst of the solid roots and teasing out the rest. Prune back the canopy by about half at the same time for balance.

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