Derwent Estate Wines: bold new steps

Three years ago the owners of Derwent Estate made a bold decision about the label’s future. And how it’s paid off.

Highly rated: the reviewed wines.

Since 1913, five generations of the Hanigan family have owned the historic Mt Nassau property adjacent to the Derwent River in southern Tasmania. At various times it was host to sheep, cattle, vegetable growing, and quarrying for limestone. So the decision to plant vines in 1992 was hardly surprising, and Derwent Estate Wines was born.

Over that decade they planted 5ha, and in the early 2000s doubled the area under vine as the quality of the grapes became known. In 2004 Bay of Fires (owned by Hardys) entered into a 10-year contract to buy the major part of the production, leaving some to be contract made under the Derwent Estate label.

Being canny farmers, the family also kept enough to supply Penfolds with chardonnay, which has been part of Yattarna for the past 12 or so years. “We rather like the association,” viticulturist Andrew Hanigan says drolly.

His parents, Trevor and Pat, were in front of the game before the Bay of Fires contract came to an end after the 2013 vintage. Would the family follow the easy, safe course of extending the contract, or would they go it alone – and, if so, how?

The wines (garnering Derwent Estate a five-star rating in my Wine Companion for all but one of the past six editions) had long been made by John Schuts at Winemaking Tasmania, so it was inevitable the family would seek Schuts’ views, and from there the dominoes toppled. He came on board as winemaker (and business partner) to design and supervise the construction of an onsite 150-tonne capacity straw bale winery just in time for the 2014 vintage.

Fast forward to the 2016 Tasmanian Wine Show and an innovation of listing the top 10 exhibitors. In a minnow and whale exercise, Derwent Estate and Brown Brothers came equal first. It’s unlikely this will be the last battle for line honours.

2014 Derwent Estate Calcaire Chardonnay

The slightly flinty, funky bouquet sets the antennae waving. Utterly exceptional purity and great line, length and balance. It could come from anywhere, especially Chablis/White Burgundy. Beautiful. Trophies include Best White Wine of Show, Tasmanian Wine Show ’15. 12.8 per cent alc; screwcap. 97 points, drink to 2024, $75

2015 Derwent Estate Late Harvest Riesling

Hand-picked, cool-fermented, 60g/l residual sugar, 7.5gl acidity, top gold Tasmanian Wine Show ’14. Beautifully balanced; blossom, nectar and lime juice don’t come better than this exquisitely detailed wine. Tasmanian climate is perfect for this style. 10 per cent alc; screwcap. 97 points, drink to 2025, $25

2014 Derwent Estate Pinot Noir

From 22-year-old vines, 15 per cent whole bunches, open-fermented, wild and cultured yeast, hand-plunged, matured in French oak (25 per cent new). Excellent colour; has all the power and depth that enables Tasmania to rival Central Otago, both now (’14 vintage) and in the far distant future. Layers of black cherry, satsuma plum and buckets of spice. 13.7 per cent alc; screwcap. 95 points, drink to 2027, $37