Cupitt’s Estate, Ulladulla, NSW
It‘s a gorgeous slice of God’s own country. But it’s also about the food, drink and hospitality on this fabulous family-run property.
It is, to be fair, a gorgeous slice of God’s own country, all neatly trimmed vines and vivid green paddocks falling to a glassy reach of Burrill Lake. The Budawang Range frames the scene, crowned by the distinctive summit of Pigeon House Mountain, named by James Cook aboard HMS Endeavour and known by traditional owners as Didthul, meaning “woman’s breast”. You can’t see the ocean from here but the fine South Coast beaches of Mollymook and Narrawallee are a short drive away. So yes, the story of Cupitt’s Estate is about this wondrous location.
But it’s also about what happens on this family-run property – the sheer entrepreneurial zeal to create. Sauvignon blanc vines stand guard out front but in the winery other grapes are sourced from cool climate regions to produce small batches ranging from prosecco to barbera. In the microbrewery, award-winning beers spanning pale ale to stout are produced alongside a cider. In the on-site fromagerie, milk from French-breed cows is used to make boutique cheeses, from feta and “bloomy rind” soft cheese to a harder alpine style. In the garden, freshly picked organic vegetables, fruits and herbs are divided between the restaurant and Cupitt’s jams and condiments.
The powerhouse behind this enterprise is matriarch Rosie Cupitt, who explains that it all started with her husband Griff as a modest venture – she would be winemaker and cook for a couple of long-table sittings each week in the historic creamery on this former dairy. A qualified winemaker, she was keen to plant some vines; a foodie with a deep love for French and Italian techniques, she was interested in cheese; a slow food advocate, she was keen on gardening and sustainable practices.
And now this restaurant and cellar door employs about 90 people; it’s a Cupitt family affair (son Wally is chief winemaker, his older brother Tom runs the operation and Rosie does the cheese) and a buzzing hive of activity that can see up to 600 people visit on weekends for the food, beer and wine, live music and family picnic atmosphere.
But there was something missing. Though close to the charming hinterland village of Milton and seaside towns like Ulladulla with their myriad accommodation options, some guests wanted to play and stay. And so, on the spot that Rosie had planned to plant a few gamay vines, 10 new accommodation pods have been built: steel, timber and glass mini-homes positioned to enjoy the rural views. While not as spectacular as the vista from the restaurant complex it’s a pleasant backdrop that says, “You’re in the country, you can relax now.”
The 47sqm units are set back and apart from each other and will soon be completely private when strategically planted trees and shrubs do their thing. The relaxed farmhouse vibe of the main estate has been continued through to the pods, which have a combined lounge and dining area with a functional kitchenette all looking out to the deck. A sexy charcoal and grey bathroom and a separate king bedroom tick the boxes. Captivating artwork from Van Rensburg Galleries in nearby Milton decorates the walls and inspires us to visit the gallery in the main street. Two cabins have large bathtubs on the veranda, best enjoyed with a bubbly from the estate as a cooling breeze drifts down from the Budawang wilderness.
From here, it’s a short stroll to the restaurant and one of our best meals in recent times. Most memorable: mussels and clams, leeks, samphire, and seaweed butter – a seaside rockpool on a plate. If Rosie’s veuve cheese, warmed in the oven then drizzled with olive oil, honey, and finished with thyme and flaked almonds is on the menu, don’t miss it.
The Shoalhaven region is a playground for all tastes and interests – we go shopping in Milton, complete the delightful Warden Head lighthouse walk in Ulladulla and visit a popular stretch of Mollymook beach. We explore country roads in our loan car for the weekend, a Mercedes-AMG E 53 4Matic+ Coupe, that has us seeking out winding, twisting roads just for the joy of driving. With its large boot there is plenty of room to stash the goodies collected during our stay.
And so, with the accommodation now open, what next for Cupitt’s? Well, says Rosie, Wally wants to plant more vines – cabernet franc and gamay perhaps. There are plans for new undercover dining and a dedicated area for small conferences. Despite all the goings on, Rosie never seems far from the original modest plan to host a long table a few days a week. “I was thinking we’d be a small neighbourhood restaurant that everyone would want to come to and we’d all have fun, and friends could come and we’d make more friends,’’ she says.
It might have grown beyond what she could have imagined, but the essence is still there.
Perfect for: Gourmet escapes.
Must do: Explore Milton and the region – from surfing at Mollymook Beach to climbing Pigeon House Mountain and hiking elsewhere in the Budawang Range.
Dining: Cupitt’s Restaurant is open seven days for lunch, and Friday and Saturday for dinner (three courses, $85pp). There is also a casual a la carte menu for outdoor diners. The pods are stocked with local goodies.
Getting there: Cupitt’s Estate is at Washburton Rd, Ulladulla, 3.5 hours drive from Sydney, and seven minutes from Milton.
Bottom line: Pods from $550 per night midweek, $599 weekends.
cupittsestate.com.au
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