Crunchy on the outside and soft in the centre, these fish patties take the cake

I am not alone in my adoration for these golden patties. They seem to please all ages, making them a perfect choice for family meals.

Take the cake: fish cakes are endlessly delicious. Photo: Nikki To

Elizabeth Hewson

3 min read

11:30AMAugust 23, 2024.

Updated 12:56PMAugust 23, 2024

The Weekend Australian Magazine

Print

I love fish cakes in all their forms. Fiery, fragrant Thai-style ones with their squishy filling, or the sophisticated crab cakes at cocktail parties, seemingly reserved for entertaining. I can never stop at one Bacalao croquette, either. But the old-fashioned British fish cake, made with potato and flaked smoked fish, fried until golden crisp and served with tangy tartare sauce, truly takes the cake.

I know I am not alone in my adoration for these golden patties. They seem to please all ages, making them a perfect choice for family meals. I do find it interesting that the recipes that delight us the most are often those rooted in comfort, humbleness and nostalgia. When people are tired and hungry, they don’t crave an elaborate meal; they seek comfort in the familiar, in the foods they know and love.

I’ve been making these fish cakes for more than 15 years, after discovering them in my early twenties during a trip to a UK seaside pub. Over the years I have experimented with uncrumbed versions, polenta coatings, added spices (my favourites are paprika or Keen’s curry powder), played around with different herbs (all soft green herbs work nicely) and types of fish (I think a smoked fish is a must), and the addition of chopped prawns (they do make a nice textural element). But I always come back to this classic version. Here I use two types of fish – a firm, white fish such as ling as the base, and a smoked fish for flavour. I like smoked rainbow trout – the type that comes whole and you can flake. Large flakes of fish are crucial in making a fish cake memorable. For seasoning, I stick with dill, Dijon mustard, parsley and lemon zest, but feel free to play around here.

You can make these fish cakes ahead and they’ll sit happily in the fridge for a day or two. They freeze well too – once coated in breadcrumbs, freeze them spread out on a tray. Then, once frozen, you can add them to a bag for easy storage. Usually I serve these fish cakes with a good dollop of tartare sauce and a simple side salad, as recommended here. Sometimes, though, we enjoy them straight from the frypan, stuffed in soft white buns. For the tartare, I take a quick approach by using store-bought mayonnaise and spiking it with all the classic trimmings – a cheat’s version. Have it with my lettuce salad for a perfect meal.

Take the cake: Elizabeth Hewson’s fish cakes Photo: Nikki To

It’ll be all white: aioli is the perfect condiment. Photo: Nikki To

Classic fish cakes

Ingredients

• 250ml milk
• 2 lemons
• 500g ling
• Salt and pepper
• 600g Sebago potatoes
• 150g smoked trout, flaked
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• ½ cup (about 1 bunch) finely chopped dill
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 120g plain flour
• 2 eggs, whisked
• 150g (1 cup) panko crumbs
• 125ml neutral oil, for frying
• Parsley, to serve (optional)

Method

1. Pour milk into a small saucepan and place over medium-low heat. Season the milk generously with salt and pepper. Add the peel from 1 lemon. Bring to a simmer, then add the fish. The milk should come about halfway up the sides of the fish. Turn the heat down and gently poach the fish in the milk for 5 to 8 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through, spooning over milk occasionally. Remove the fish and set it aside to cool. Discard the milk mixture.
2. Meanwhile, bring a pot of water to the boil. Season the water generously. Add the potatoes and cook until soft when pierced with a knife. Drain potatoes into a colander and leave to cool and dry. When dry and cool enough to handle (about 15 minutes), place them back in the pan and mash them roughly, leaving some chunks.
3. Flake both the poached ling and the smoked trout into the pot (or move everything to a large bowl). Add the garlic, the zest of remaining lemon, dill, mustard, and a generous seasoning of salt and pepper.
4. Use your hands to mix until combined. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Mould the mixture into 12 patties, roughly 1.5 cm thick. Place in the fridge for about 20 minutes to set.
5. Lay out three bowls. Put flour in the first, whisked eggs into the second and breadcrumbs in the third. To coat the fish cakes, lightly flour a fish cake, shake off any excess then dip it in the egg to coat both sides. Finish by pressing the cake into the panko crumbs, turning it over and pressing lightly to help the crumbs stick. Repeat until you’ve coated all your fish cakes.
6. When ready to serve, heat a large non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Add oil, which should be enough to cover the base of the frypan. When the oil is hot, cook the fish cakes in batches for 2 to 3 minutes on each side until golden. I like to stand them on their side, using tongs, so I can get all the edges golden.
7. Keep the cooked fish cakes in a warm oven while you finish cooking the rest. To serve, sprinkle with salt flakes and serve with tartare sauce and wedges of lemon. Makes 12

Tartare

Ingredients

• 150g whole egg mayo
• 50g (12) baby cucumbers
• 2 spring onions, finely sliced
• 2-3 teaspoons Dijion mustard, to your liking
• 2 teaspoon capers, drained
• 2 tablespoon parsley, chopped
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice (to your liking)

Combine all the tartare ingredients, taste, and adjust to your liking.