Cradle Mountain Lodge, Tasmania: creature comforts
Creature comforts abound and the most unexpectedly delightful walk at the Cradle Mountain Lodge...
It’s happy hour in Tasmania’s Central Highlands and for the furry pademelon outside our window and the joey peeking out from its pouch, that means a late afternoon snack of local foliage. For those of us gazing out at them from beside the fire in a warm cabin at Peppers Cradle Mountain Lodge, there’s local cider and cheese. So it’s Tassie produce all round as the day ends and a ubiquitous drizzle lends an even moodier air to one of the state’s most beloved regions.
The daytime temperature is barely nudging the mid teens but we’re snug inside our freestanding suite, soft music flowing from the selection programmed to a bedside unit, the fire laid in advance of our arrival roaring impressively. Our newly renovated King Billy suite is top of the line of the hotel’s selection of rooms, with its striking dual-sided fireplace and muted furnishings mirroring the naturally soft palette outside. Only some of the 86 cabins are freestanding but all feature fireplaces, balconies and views of the surrounding bush.
And that’s where attention inevitably turns during a stay in Tasmania’s World Heritage wilderness area. The lodge abuts Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park, where walks extend from a few minutes to days, and can be organised through the in-house tour guide. Free shuttle buses also leave regularly from a stop near the lodge’s entrance for the 7km drive down to crystal-clear Dove Lake, where a 6km walking track will take you around the stunning shore line, with views of Cradle Mountain if you’re lucky, in a couple of hours. Even a 10-minute meander down to the lake’s old boat house provides equally Instagram-worthy views.
But the most unexpectedly delightful walk is at the lodge itself. Listed as one of Tasmania’s best short ambles, the Enchanted Walk is a 20-minute circuit that passes moss-covered rocks, rushing streams, the odd wombat burrow and branches covered in snow-like lichen. With its winter-wonderland atmosphere it’s aptly named, and conveniently passes the lodge’s main building.
Inside, a seemingly always roaring fire welcomes guests to a private lounge, perfect for reading or for a drink before dinner. Even here, seated comfortably in the Highland Restaurant, nature’s snapshots continue. While wildlife flourishes in the area – we spot multiple wombats and pademelons wandering around the property during the day (some walking paths are closed at night) – the most unexpected sighting occurs during dinner. Before taking our order, our waiter says he has “something special” to tell us, and we assume he’s referring to the evening’s menu. In fact he’s tipping us off to a recent and rare appearance of a platypus in the small lake overlooked by the restaurant. If we’re lucky, he says, we might spot it from our table before the sun sets.
We see nothing that evening. But 24 hours later, as we gaze out at the lake before dinner is served, there is a ripple in the water. Suddenly, a platypus’s bill appears above the water. It turns slightly, as though taking in the rustic scene, and then with another ripple of water, disappears. It’s a magical moment, unplanned and, despite the previous evening’s tip-off, unexpected. And one that could happen almost nowhere else.
• Perfect for: Lovers of nature and creature comforts.
• Must do: After a day of hiking, a massage in the hotel’s popular Waldheim Alpine Spa is especially welcoming. With its floor-to-ceiling window, the couples’ room has a magnificent view over the bush down to a fast running stream.
• Dining: Unless you fancy driving, options are largely restricted to the hotel’s two restaurants: the casual Tavern Bar and Bistro, open all day, and the Highland Restaurant. Breakfast is served in the latter; at night the space morphs into an upmarket restaurant, the massive stone fireplace adding to the warm ambience. The small set menu, offering two or three courses, caters to most dietary requirements, and the wine list features many local options.
• Getting there: The lodge is about two hours’ drive from Launceston airport, 90 minutes from Burnie airport and 80 minutes from Devonport airport.
• Bottom line: From about $300 a night for a Pencil Pine cabin to $1400 for the King Billy suite (all with breakfast). Flexible “Take Two” deals available for bookings before January 31 (valid for 13 months) at Accor properties nationwide.
peppers.com.au/cradle-mountain-lodge; all.accor.com
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