Cooked grapes: try it and you’ll be a convert

If you’re a fan of what a dash of wine can do for a dish, it’s time to cut out the middle man and cook the grapes instead.

Game changer: Chicken with grapes. Picture: Guy Bailey

If you’re a fan of what a dash of wine can do for a dish, it’s time to cut out the middle man and cook the grapes instead. The roasted fruit develops an intense flavour, and in this dish the juices mix with the schmaltzy chicken fat to yield a rich gravy – perfect for mopping up with crusty bread. Ajo blanco, a Spanish soup of almonds and grapes, makes a lovely saucy accompaniment or appetiser.

Chicken with grapes

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

8 chicken thighs, skin on and bone in (see tips)

500g seedless green grapes, trimmed into small bunches

1 whole bulb of garlic, cut in half

1 large Spanish onion, peeled and cut into wedges

½ cup chopped blanched almonds

¼ teaspoon smoked sweet paprika

½ teaspoon salt flakes

Sourdough baguette, thickly sliced on an angle

Blanched green beans and lemon cheeks, to serve

Preheat oven to 220C (200C fan). Pat-dry the chicken and season; on the stovetop, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large baking dish. Cook the chicken, skin-side down, over medium heat until browned and rendered (about 15 minutes). Turn the chicken over, nestle the grape bunches and garlic halves around the meat and scatter with onion and almonds. Sprinkle with paprika and salt flakes; drizzle with 2 tablespoons of oil. Roast for 20-25 minutes until grapes are blistered and chicken juices run clear. For the last 10 minutes of cooking time, place sourdough on a lined baking tray, drizzle with 1 tablespoon oil and season with salt and pepper; bake until golden. Serve with blanched green beans and lemon cheeks. Serves 6-8

Ajo blanco

Ajo blanco

½ cup blanched almonds

1 clove garlic

30g bread, crusts removed

1 cup cold water

6 ice cubes

½ teaspoon salt flakes

2 tablespoons Jerez Spanish sherry vinegar (or red wine vinegar, if unavailable)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, extra for garnish

200g seedless green grapes, halved

In a blender, blitz almonds, garlic, bread, water, ice, salt and vinegar until thick and silky smooth. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the oil. Taste, adjust seasoning and chill (you can do this a day before serving). When ready to serve, cut fridge-cold grapes in half. Pour sauce into a serving bowl, add grape halves and drizzle with oil. Makes 2 cups

Top tips

Can’t find thighs on the bone? Chop maryland portions into drumsticks and thighs, or get your butcher to do this

For the best crispy skin, leave the chicken uncovered, skin side up, in the fridge overnight

If making both recipes, grab the nub of your sourdough loaf for the ajo blanco. Otherwise, any leftover bread or crumbs from the freezer will do