Chicken marylands, grapes and wine: a taste sensation
The meat becomes tender and juicy, immersed in a sauce that’s winey, sweet and full of depth from just a few ingredients.
Food and wine are meant to be, they bring out the best in one another. But wine isn’t only a pairing for a dish; it’s a cooking essential, adding depth, complexity and character to food. Wine’s defining elements – acidity, tannin, sweetness – each play a role in cooking, and bring dimensions that water or fat alone cannot.
But does the classic rule “Never cook with a wine you wouldn’t drink” hold up? A New York Times investigation suggests it doesn’t always. Cheaper wines that you wouldn’t necessarily want to drink can work fine in cooking, as it’s the structure, not the distinct flavours, that matters, especially in dishes cooked long and slow or with big flavour. I mostly agree – with a few caveats.
First, it depends on whether I intend to enjoy a glass while I’m in the kitchen. If I’m cooking on a leisurely weekend, there’s something romantic about opening a bottle I enjoy drinking, adding a splash to the dish, and savouring the remaining wine. When this happens, I will use wine that I want to drink. But I can’t bring myself to cook with a wine that’s aged, expensive or meaningful – using such a wine for cooking just feels wrong.
If I’m not in the mood for a glass but still want wine central to the flavour of a dish, I opt for something dry and balanced – an Italian white blend is often perfect. I then freeze leftover wine in small portions for future use. Dry white vermouth, which keeps indefinitely, is an excellent standby.
For slow-cooked dishes or recipes with bold flavours, I’m less concerned about wine quality but will avoid anything too sweet or tannic, as I find these elements can throw off the dish’s balance.
This is a lovely chicken dish which is braised in even quantities of white wine and chicken stock, with the addition of butter to create a rich, luxurious sauce. The meat becomes tender and juicy, immersed in a sauce that’s winey, sweet and full of depth from just a few ingredients. With Australian grape season finally here, fresh grapes add a lovely balance to the chicken, offering a delightful pop. Serve with thickly buttered bread to soak up every last bit of sauce, and a lightly dressed green leaf salad. This makes a perfect alfresco meal. And one I’d be happy to share a glass with.
Try too my other recipe this week: prosecco jelly.
Chicken with white wine and grapes
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1½ teaspoons salt
- 4 chicken Marylands
- 4 garlic cloves, smashed
- 30g butter, unsalted
- 250ml dry white wine
- 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
- 250ml chicken stock
- Pepper
- 250g red and/or white grapes
- Small handful of thyme sprigs (about ¼ bunch)
Method
- Preheat oven to 180C (170C fan-forced). Remove the chicken from the fridge and let it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Season well with salt.
- In a heavy casserole dish or high-sided frypan that can go in the oven (or you’ll need to transfer to a roasting dish), heat the olive oil over medium heat. Brown the chicken on all sides until golden. Take your time here as this is important for flavour and presentation. Remove the chicken from the pan. Add garlic, butter and white wine into the pan. Melt the butter and simmer the wine for 2 minutes.
- Stir in the balsamic vinegar, chicken stock and pepper. Scrape the bottom of the pan to lift any sticky bits. Return the chicken to the pan; nestle in grapes and thyme.
- Transfer to the oven and cook for 45 minutes, or until the chicken is tender and falling away from the bone. Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary.
- Carefully scoop out the chicken and grapes (avoiding bursting them) onto a platter or serve directly from the pan. Serve with buttered bread and a lightly dressed green leaf salad.
Serves 2-4