Chef Lennox Hastie’s grilled mushroom recipe packs in their earthy flavour
Mushrooms are made for grilling, with smoke imbuing their earthiness, natural sweetness and meaty texture.
There is something truly magical about mushrooms. During my time in the Basque Country, I lived in an old ruined house at the base of the Mount Anboto – the mystical peak that majestically frames Asador Etxebarri.
Many locals believed that there was gold hidden in the hills. I never found any, but there was always a veritable treasure trove of culinary delights waiting to be discovered, from sloe berries through to wild strawberries, chestnuts, game, and particularly mushrooms. While I would happily pick berries and herbs by myself, I would always defer to the experience of a local forager when it came to mushrooms for fear of accidentally picking a harmful death cap. The dense foliage of the woods created a sense of being cocooned in a secret world, rich with the scent of damp earth and pine needles. As we scoured the thick underbrush for any sign of the prized porcinis, I was reminded of the fundamental origins of our food and the vital role that nature plays in our lives.
One of the most fascinating aspects of mushrooms is their ability to form networks of mycelium, which are underground webs of tiny threads that twist through the soil, allowing them to communicate and exchange nutrients with other plants and fungi. There is a complex beauty to these organisms that we continue to discover, and a unique ability to connect us with the natural world. And while there are estimated to be more than 10,000 species of mushrooms, only a small percentage have been studied and identified to date.
With exotic names like hen of the woods, pioppinos, lion’s mane, hedgehogs and slippery jacks (characters that would not seem out of place in a fairy tale), there is a whole world (actually a kingdom) to discover beyond the basic white button.
For me, mushrooms are the food of the future, many capable of growing in controlled environments, and at the forefront of regenerative agriculture. Cultivating mushrooms is a natural way to recycle organic materials, and the resulting crop boasts a richness of flavour that leaves plant-based meat substitutes for dust. But the magic of mushrooms goes beyond their taste and texture.
These mysterious organisms have long been revered for their medicinal properties, from boosting immunity to reducing inflammation, while certain varieties have psychedelic effects, opening the doors to a whole new colourful world. My mind was recently blown upon learning about Mylo, a sustainable leather alternative made from mycelium.
Mushrooms are made for grilling, with gentle smoke imbuing a subtle earthiness that melds perfectly with the mushrooms’ natural sweetness while retaining their plump and meaty texture.
The natural umami is further enlivened in this recipe by the fragrant combination of miso and black garlic in a rich roasted garlic butter.
-
RECIPE: Grilled mushrooms
Ingredients
- 1kg mixed mushrooms (I use a combination of shiitake, oyster, wood ear and lion’s mane but use whatever is available or in season)
- 40ml olive oil
- 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 50ml olive oil
- 50ml sherry vinegar
- 100g butter at room temperature
- 2 tablespoons white miso
- 4 cloves fermented black
- garlic
- 4 sprigs thyme, chopped
- ½ bunch parsley, chopped
- ½ bunch tarragon, chopped
- Salt
Method
- Clean the mushrooms by wiping them with a damp cloth and removing any woody stems. Cut into even pieces.
- Combine the raw garlic with the 50ml oil and vinegar. Heat the mixture in a pan until the garlic is caramelised and golden brown. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. Set aside.
- In a bowl, combine butter, black garlic, miso, herbs (and a pinch of salt if using unsalted butter), stirring well to combine. Gently toss the mushrooms in the 40ml olive oil and cook over a grill or barbecue on medium heat for 7-8 minutes, turning halfway through cooking and seasoning lightly with salt.
- Once tender and slightly caramelised at the edges, remove the mushrooms and transfer them to a serving dish. Dress with the butter mixture, which should melt over the warm mushrooms. Serves 3-4.