Charteris Wines: how PJ and Christina struck out on their own

PJ Charteris first worked in a vineyard at 13. No matter what the variety or style, he’s been there and done it.

TWAM 16 Jan 2016

Tousle-haired and bright-eyed Peter James (PJ) Charteris was 13 when he stepped into the Vilagrad Wines Vineyard at Hamilton, in the North Island of New Zealand, to earn pocket money, learning how to prune vines in the process.

The wine bug bit, and when he left school aged 18 in 1986 he spent two years as a vineyard and cellar hand at Vilagrad.

In 1988 he crossed the ditch for the first time, enrolling in the oenology degree course at Roseworthy, Adelaide. Between then and 1993 he managed to work for Tim Knappstein Wines (1991); did vintages at Lindeman’s Hunter Valley (’90, ’92, ’93); headed back to Vilagrad as winemaker (December ’90 to August ’93); and vintages ’92 and ’93 at Adelsheim Wines in Oregon (August to November). Impossible? It was all down to the varying months of vintage across the ditch and the hemispheres. Even after he became winemaker for Southcorp, in November ’93, it didn’t stop entirely. While rising rapidly up the ranks there he undertook a vintage at Flowers Winery in California.

In June ’99 he was headhunted by Brokenwood, remaining there for 12 happy years, taking one final overseas sabbatical with Paul Jaboulet in the Rhône Valley. It was at Brokenwood that he met his partner Christina Pattison, then sales and marketing manager.

With the full approval of Brokenwood, in 2008 the duo founded Charteris Wines at Bannockburn in Central Otago, leading to continuous ditch-hopping as they patiently built up the business, focusing on its best varieties: chardonnay, pinot noir and an outlier of riesling. With a 1000-case production it’s not paying too many bills yet, so PJ is building up a consultancy business, helped not only by his exceptionally broad career, but as a senior judge on the show circuit. No matter what the variety, what the style, PJ has already been there and done it.

2014 Charteris The Hunt Vineyard Central Otago Riesling

Riesling winemakers in New Zealand understand the very high natural acidity of the grapes there, and the need to balance it with residual sugar that is absorbed into the fabric of the wine. This is a perfect rendition of that balance, with intense lime/grapefruit flavours up front, then a palate with great length, seemingly fruit sweet, not sugar sweet. 11.5% alc; screwcap. 95 points; drink to 2029; $33

2013 Charteris The Astral Vineyard Central Otago Chardonnay

This wine has a complex, faintly funky bouquet from the malolactic fermentation (essential to reduce acidity) and repeated lees stirring. Despite this, it is remarkably fine, possibly protected with all movements in the cellar by gravity. These are high-spirited wines, and need a gentle hand to calm them. 13.5% alc; screwcap. 95 points; drink to 2033; $50

2013 Central Otago Pinot Noir

Clear, bright crimson-purple, this is wondrously fragrant, with truly beautiful red and black cherry riddled with spice. Power without excess baggage, not the Central sledgehammer style, despite 30 days on skins. 14% alc; screwcap. 96 points; drink to 2025; $41