Bondar, McLaren Vale, SA

Andre Bondar and Selina Kelly embarked on a three-year search before they found their 8.7ha vineyard in Blewitt Springs.

If you are still young, which for me means under 40, and your business is making and selling wine, your best years should be in front of you. As will be a life-defining choice: to increase production, or to hone and polish that which you already have. Each choice will have many qualifications, but if you don’t distinguish between the two you’ll simply fade away.

The most obvious exponent of growth is Wolf Blass, who arrived in this country with nothing other than chutzpah and created a brand with worldwide recognition, of which he is justly proud. And John Casella created Yellow Tail by being in the right place at the right time, flying faster and higher than Blass.

South Australians Andre Bondar and Selina Kelly embarked on a three-year search before they found an 8.7ha vineyard in the Blewitt Springs district of McLaren Vale. It was 2013, and Andre had been a part of the winemaking team at Nepenthe for seven years, while Selina had completed her law degree but had no appetite to continue down that path.

They began negotiations to buy the Rayner Vineyard, as it’s known, but there were two problems. First, it had a reputation for the quality of its fruit, and the owner was in no hurry to sell. Second, the oldest (1947) and largest blocks were riddled with the die-back disease (Eutypa), an industry-wide problem. It was also being strangled by couch grass. Undaunted, they completed the purchase later in the year.

In some blocks vine-by-vine surgery was required. But as their work on the vineyard progressed, production slowly but steadily increased from eight tonnes in 2014 to 55 tonnes in 2018. In the 2017 Wine Companion, Bondar was made Best New Winery, and last year it consolidated earlier successes in the McLaren Vale Wine Show, winning three trophies.

2017 Bondar Violet Hour Mclaren Vale Shiraz, 2016 Bondar Rayner Vineyard Shiraz, 2018 Bondar Rayner Vineyard Grenache.

2017 Bondar Violet Hour McLaren Vale Shiraz

A blend of vinification approaches for specific blocks and parcels, all from the estate. Scented with dark spices and dark fruits – fruits that drive the palate, initially dense, then lifting on the finish, illuminating what’s gone before. From the Rayner Vineyard. 14.1% alc, screwcap 97 points, drink to 2041, $30

2016 Bondar Rayner Vineyard Shiraz

Matured for 20 months in a single hogshead, only 33 dozen bottles made. Deep colour; it’s the essence of McLaren Vale, with dark, plush blackberry fruit dipped in dark chocolate; tannins aplenty, but sheer velvet. It would be very handy for a Rabelaisian dinner party. 14% alc, screwcap 97 points, drink to 2047, $45

2018 Bondar Rayner Vineyard Grenache

Bondar’s aim is to produce bright, pretty grenache, largely by earlier picking – which was easy in the cool ’17 vintage, but more difficult in ’18. A raspberry, cherry-accented bouquet, the palate following suit. Its overall freshness is exceptional. 14.3% alc, screwcap 96 points, drink to 2029, $40