2017 Nocturne Tassell Park Vineyard Margaret River Chardonnay; 2018 Nocturne Single Vineyard Margaret River Nebbiolo Rose; Nocturne Sheoak Vineyard Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon

One white, one red and one inbetween.

2017 Nocturne Tassell Park Vineyard Margaret River Chardonnay; 2018 Nocturne Single Vineyard Margaret River Nebbiolo Rosƒ 2017; Nocturne Sheoak Vineyard Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon

When Sydney-based hand surgeon and bon vivant Max Lake bought a steeply pitched block of volcanic soil in 1963, he was venturing into the unknown. Even he recognised the nature of his Hunter Valley project – improbable at best, doomed to failure at worst – when he named it Lake’s Folly. Within a relatively few years, he recognised his folly had opened Pandora’s Box. It encouraged countless others in Sydney, Melbourne and Perth to follow in his footsteps.

Pandora’s Box opened again when winemakers employed by large companies sought leave to make a small amount of wine that could never threaten the employer’s business. The reaction was outrage and refusal to even discuss the idea. Those days are long gone (if commonsense prevails), the outcome a win-win.

Enter Julian Langworthy and wife Alana. They have been making small quantities of wine for more than 10 years, but since 2011 the game has changed. Julian was appointed chief winemaker of the Fogarty Wine Group (FWG), which owns Lake’s Folly (what else?), Millbrook Winery and Deep Woods Estate in Margaret River (where he grew up). He transformed Deep Woods Estate, winning endless gold medals and trophies – notably the 2016 Jimmy Watson for Deep Woods 2014 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

In 2017, Ray Jordan’s West Australian Wine Guide chose Julian as WA Winemaker of the Year, and in my 2019 Wine Companion I named him Australian Winemaker of the Year. He and Alana have their own label, Nocturne, and in February 2017 purchased the Sheoak Vineyard, planted with 19-year-old cabernet sauvignon. Peter Fogarty has one of the best winemakers around, anchored in Margaret River unless he’s receiving awards, strutting marketing stages of the world or mentoring the other winemakers in the FWG.

2017 Nocturne Tassell Park Vineyard Margaret River Chardonnay

A tiny 0.37ha interplanted with Bernard/Dijon and Gin Gin clones on south-facing deep silver grey sands. Wild fermented in new and used oak. Pale straw-green; highly fragrant/perfumed, palate fine and intense; minerally aftertaste. 13% alc, screwcap 97 points, drink to 2030, $42

2018 Nocturne Single Vineyard Margaret River Nebbiolo Rose

From a single vineyard; free-run juice only used. Remarkable wild yeast wine with no additions until bottling. Beautiful nutty infused strawberry and cherry flavours, mouthfeel, balance, length. All boxes (and then some) ticked. 13% alc, screwcap 96 points, drink to 2022, $35

2017 Nocturne Sheoak Vineyard Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon

A nail-biting vintage, rain ravaged then with unbroken sun. “I am as happy with this cabernet as any I have been involved in making,” says Julian, and one taste will tell you this isn’t marketing spin. A beautiful cabernet, purity and balance of the highest order. 14% alc, screwcap 97 points, drink to 2039, $42