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20 reds over $25

Shiraz from across the nation dominates the expensive reds bracket, although Grange takes top points (and price).

 
 

For the Top 100 list I use a 100-point scoring system: here’s how it works:

97-99: Exceptional. Wines that have won major trophies in important wine shows, or are of that standard.

95-96: Outstanding. Wines of gold medal standard, usually with a great pedigree.

94: Wines on the cusp of gold medal status, virtually indistinguishable from those receiving 95 points.

90-93: Highly recommended. Wines of great quality, style and character, and worthy of a place in any cellar.

89: Recommended. Wines on the cusp of silver medal standard, the difference purely a judgment call.

86-88: Wines of bronze medal standard: well produced, flavoursome, usually not requiring cellaring.

PINOT NOIR

Freycinet Pinot Noir 2015

From the first estate plantings (1980) at this vineyard on Tasmania’s east coast, matured in French oak for 12 months. The colour and bouquet are good, the palate another thing again, soaring with its energy and drive, its length prodigious. Complex, earthy dark fruits are tied together by savoury tannins of the highest quality.

97 points, $70

screwcap, 14.5% alc

drink to 2026

freycinetvineyard.com.au

Home Hill Kelly’s Reserve Pinot Noir 2015

This wine from Tasmania’s Huon Valley captures every corner of the mouth with its brooding array of foresty red, purple and blue fruits, the powerful tannins fully justified and giving the wine a 20-year future. Try to keep your hands off it as long as you can.

98 points, $75

screwcap, 13.9% alc

drink to 2035

homehillwines.com.au

Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015

Bright, clear crimson; alluring perfume. There is a purity to the red and black cherry/berry fruits of this Tasmanian pinot that shines through the portals of its high quality savoury/spicy tannins. It has all the structure for a luminous future that will richly repay those who are patient enough.

97 points, $78

screwcap, 13.5% alc

drink to 2028

tolpuddlevineyard.com

Yabby Lake Vineyard Single Block Release Pinot Noir 2015

High-toned spicy notes are the cornerstone of this highly expressive and elegant wine from Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula, providing a launch pad for the silky, elegant but long and insistent palate.

97 points, $95

screwcap, 13% alc

drink to 2030

yabbylake.com

SHIRAZ AND BLENDS

Kerrigan + Berry Frankland River Shiraz 2014

Fragrant black fruits, spices, licorice and a subnote of tar presage a totally distinguished cool palate – in the sense of grapes that have been cool grown in the south of WA and picked at optimal ripeness, in turn reflected by the sheer intensity of this wine.

97 points, $35

screwcap, 14% alc

drink to 2044

kerriganandberry.com.au

Turkey Flat Barossa Valley Shiraz 2014

All of the mainstream red winemaking options are used, with unrelenting attention to detail. This is a hero Barossa Valley shiraz, its backbone planted in 1847, with great colour, profound complexity, yet retaining a calm personality within its array of primary, fresh flavours.

97 points, $47

screwcap, 14.1% alc

drink to 2044

turkeyflat.com.au

Giant Steps Tarraford Vineyard Yarra Valley Syrah 2015

This wine joins a band of Yarra Valley shirazes of the highest quality from vines planted in the 1970s and 1980s. It is 95% whole-bunch fermented in a 4000-litre French oak vat, and full-bodied, with an intense symphony of flavours – black fruit, spice, pepper and licorice.

97 points, $50

screwcap, 13.8% alc

drink to 2055

giantstepswine.com.au

Mount Pleasant Old Paddock & Old Hill Hunter Valley Shiraz 2014

An enthralling shiraz from the Hunter Valley with intense finesse, a juicy, vibrant mouthfeel and a flavour intensity that is quite exceptional. Seldom has terroir spoken with such eloquence in Australia.

98 points, $50

screwcap, 14% alc

drink to 2054

mountpleasantwines.com.au

Mount Pleasant Rosehill Vineyard Hunter Valley Shiraz 2014

This is a very high quality, full-bodied wine in a different idiom to its siblings – here, the Hunter earth and leather are more obvious (relatively speaking). It has a great future if you can keep your hands off it.

96 points, $50

screwcap, 14% alc

drink to 2044

mountpleasantwines.com.au

De Iuliis Limited Release Hunter Valley Shiraz 2014

Produced by blending the best barrels from various sites, this Hunter shiraz is positively unctuous, painting the mouth with an array of red, purple, blue and black fruits (if there are more, chuck them in and I won’t argue). The flavours linger long after the wine is swallowed – yet it is only medium-bodied.

98 points, $80

screwcap, 14.6% alc

drink to 2054

dewine.com.au

Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2015

Tim Kirk’s Socratean dissatisfaction has led to changes in the vineyard and winery outside Canberra, including increased use of whole bunches, resulting in even greater perfume and more texture, yet leaving the mouth fresh. Here, spices are embroidered on the red fruits with unequalled attention to detail.

98 points, $110

screwcap, 14% alc

drink to 2030

clonakilla.com.au

Hardys Eileen Hardy McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013

The texture of this wine leaves an exquisite impression, making the moderate alcohol seem even lower than it is. This is an old-money aristocrat from South Australia, elegantly unfurling layers of red and black fruits, licorice and spice on the prodigiously long palate. The best Eileen since ’71.

98 points, $110

screwcap, 14.1% alc

drink to 2048

hardyswine.com.au

Mount Langi Ghiran Vineyards Langi Shiraz 2014

From the Langi Old Block in Victoria’s Grampians region, planted in 1963. Full-bodied, with exceptional poise reflecting fastidious vinification. Intense fruits, ripe tannins and cedary oak are members of an orchestra playing Beethoven under the direction of a great conductor.

98 points, $120

screwcap, 14% alc

drink to 2039

langi.com.au

Penfolds RWT Bin 798 Barossa Shiraz 2014

The quixotic RWT (Red Winemaking Trial) name used since 1987 now has a bin number and a bottle number – the latter to thwart counterfeiting. The power and length of this Barossa wine is awesome, as is the price – but it’s what the global market is prepared to pay.

97 points, $200

screwcap, 14.5% alc

drink to 2054

penfolds.com

Penfolds Grange Bin 95 2012

This vintage was destined to be one of the greatest Granges. In the flesh it is majestically complex, superbly focused and intense, and wondrously balanced. It has every black fruit flavour known to man or woman, and will become more magical with each passing decade. Oh for a screwcap.

99 points, $850

cork, 14.5% alc

drink to 2062

penfolds.com

OTHER REDS

Rudderless McLaren Vale Grenache Mataro Graciano 2014

Glory be to this eclectic blend from South Australia that pulls the bouquet and the palate every which way. There are luscious plummy fruits, slashes of red cherry, pots of spices and a gloriously fresh finish.

95 points, $35

screwcap, 14% alc

drink to 2034

victoryhotel.com.au

CABERNET & SAUVIGNON BLENDS

Snake + Herring Cannonball Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Petit Verdot 2013

This medium-bodied blend from Margaret River – 64% cabernet, 21% merlot, 11% petit verdot and 4% malbec, separately matured in French oak – is an Aladdin’s Cave of aromas and flavours, framed by a complex chord of savoury tannins.

96 points, $38

screwcap, 13.5% alc

drink to 2033

snakeandherring.com.au

Xanadu Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Cabernet doesn’t come more intense than this Margaret River example without losing its shape; this wine manages it with purity and precision. Includes 5% each of malbec and petit verdot. The fruit and tannins have well and truly absorbed the oak. And it’s good to drink now – the final achievement.

98 points, $85

screwcap, 14% alc

drink to 2043

xanaduwines.com

Cullen Margaret River Diana Madeline 2014

Right in the slot of the style established (with some polishing and refining) over the years; 89% cabernet sauvignon, 11% Bordeaux varieties. The complexity of the texture and structure is second to none, led by the born-to-rule cabernet. The might of the tannins is the key to this great wine.

98 points, $125

screwcap, 13.5% alc

drink to 2044

cullenwines.com.au

West Cape Howe Book Ends Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

From several vineyards in Mount Barker, WA. A great example of the vitality and varietal clarity West Cape Howe brings to its wines. Its cassis fruit is mouthwatering, not a phrase you would normally use with cabernet, but true here.

96 points, $28

screwcap, 14.5% alc

drink to 2034

westcapehowewines.com.au

547 wines submitted

The high points reflect the excellent 2015 growing season across most of Australia, continuing through to harvest. Pinot noir is a standout, with four wines selected, and another four unlucky to just miss out. Shiraz (syrah) is Australia’s greatest wine; all the selected wines are world class, and encompass vintages from 2012 to 2015. Ongoing improvements in viticultural equipment are providing fruit of equivalent quality to that achieved by scrupulous handpicking – free from damaged berries and fragments of stalks and leaves – but at a fraction of the cost.

The best of the rest:

Bay of Fires Pinot Noir 2015 96, $45

De Bortoli Riorret Lusatia Park Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2015 96, $45

Hoddles Creek Estate 1er Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2015 97, $45

Spinifex Barossa Syrah 2015 95, $30

Moppity Vineyards Estate Hilltops Shiraz 2015 95, $35

Larry Cherubino Frankland River Shiraz 2015 96, $55

Houghton Thomas Yule Frankland River Shiraz 2012 97, $75

Best’s Sparky’s Block 1970 Vines Great Western Shiraz 2014 97, $150

Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz 2012 96, $298

Yeringberg 2014 96, $98

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Original URL: https://www.theaustralian.com.au/weekend-australian-magazine/20-reds-over-25/news-story/651ed71235e94e430ec8d575f408f889