What to do on Waiheke Island
Just 40 minutes by ferry from Auckland is the ultimate holiday playground.
Just 40 minutes by ferry from Auckland in the Hauraki Gulf, Waiheke Island has much to recommend it, from wineries and olive groves to art galleries and stunning beaches. If you're wondering what there is to do on Waiheke Island, then read on.
1. Waiheke Wine Centre
If time is in short supply for test-driving all the vineyards, do some research at the Waiheke Wine Centre, where you can sample many of the 26 local labels. There are interesting Italian varietals, Bordeaux-style blends, and exceptional syrah, pinot gris and chardonnay. The T+L list of favourites includes Obsidian Estate Tempranillo 2016 and Reserve Chardonnay 2018; Man O’ War Dreadnought Syrah 2016; Mudbrick Reserve Pinot Gris 2019 and Reserve Merlot Cab Sav Petit Verdot Malbec 2018; Passage Rock Reserve Syrah 2015 and two wines recommended by the sommelier at Poderi Crisci restaurant: Viburno, a blend of merlot, montepulciano and cabernet franc, and PC’s 2018 Arneis — a “cheeky rascal” indeed.
2. Musical Museum
Music aficionados will applaud Lloyd and Joan Whittaker’s museum of more than 100 instruments collected over 30 years: case pianos, xylophones, glockenspiels, pedal organs, spinets, compact ship pianos, and well-dressed piano accordions. A clavichord made by early-music expert Alec Loretto in 1976 has satiny wooden keys and is a replica of a keyboard from the 15th century. Whittakers Musical Museum boasts the oldest Steinway in New Zealand, a table grand built in New York in 1873 and a colourful German fairground organ. Also in the collection is the Bechstein concert grand that Polish pianist Ignacy Jan Paderewski brought to New Zealand on tour. Rather than ship it home, he left it in Auckland in 1904. The instruments are tuned and restored, and visitors are actually encouraged to play them.
3. Stony Batter
Stony Batter, at the island’s northeast end, is a network of underground tunnels, chambers and gun sites. Built between 1942 and 1948 (yes, it was still being finished after the war), the battery was designed to defend Auckland from enemy attacks that never eventuated. In December, after a five-year shutdown, 1.3km of tunnels were reopened at Fort Stony Batter Historic Reserve in a project led by local archaeologist Timothy Moon. Handrails, additional exits, lighting and improved flooring have made these safer and more accessible. See the gun turrets and emplacement pits, read about the history, and take a stroll in a landscape of sheep and vines and boulders more than seven million years old, the remnants of a basalt volcano. There are walking tracks to Opopo and Hooks bays (each one hour and 40 minutes return.) The views are spectacular, the air invigorating.
4. Mudbrick
Sitting on the high terrace of Mudbrick Vineyard at sunset eating Te Matuku Bay oysters (the odd duck in attendance) with a chilled pinot gris is one of life’s great pleasures. These Pacific oysters are sustainably grown in the southeast corner of Waiheke; they don’t spawn, which means they’re available year round. They’re firm, plump and, because they tend to be shucked to order, salty. Buy to take away at Te Matuku Oyster Shop in Ostend or look on the menu at fine-diners such as The Oyster Inn, the Estate Restaurant at Tantalus, Vino Vino, Bach Restaurant at Batch Winery, Casita Miro, Three Seven Two and Poderi Crisci.
5. Oneroa Beach
Little Oneroa Beach Reserve is a value-add bay at the eastern end of Oneroa Beach. A perfect family spot, facing north, it has grass and shade, gentle surf, shells for beachcombers, a big sandpit, a children’s playground and tidal puddles (shared with amicable seagulls). A pizza truck called Dragonfired awaits; order the goat’s cheese, artichoke and venison salami or the signature calzone. There’s a general store here and at the weekend a plethora of pleasure craft moored in the bay. Late afternoon is the best time to go. Take the track (more a step class) to Newton’s Reserve headland, part of the island’s 100km of walking trails. tourismwaiheke.co.nz
6. Poderi Crisci
You could be in Tuscany. Poderi Crisci, near Awaawaroa Bay on the south side of the island, is set among olive trees and vine-covered hills and a garden fragrant with lavender, oregano and purple flowering rosemary hedges. Ingredients grow just metres from diners — zucchini, tomatoes, pumpkin, black chilli, spinach, figs and strawberries — with flavours that shout “paddock” from the plate. Antonio Crisci’s establishment takes an every-which-way approach. Settle in for the Sunday long lunch (a leisurely feast from 12.30 pm to 4.30-ish) or order the daily set menu, the degustation, a la carte, or just “trust the chef”. It’s hard to go past the creamy organic stracciatella with vine-ripened cherry tomatoes, and the pescetti marinati, a cushion of tarakihi fillet marinated in lemon, lime, garlic, chilli and Italian parsley. You’d go back for the gnocchi and its rarefied ragu, and the finely sliced aged Angus sirloin.
7. Ostend Market
Join locals on Saturdays at the Ostend Market, held inside and next to the Waiheke War Memorial Hall (7.30am – 1pm). This a great idea if you're here on the weekend and wondering what to do on Waiheke Island. Browse for holiday provisions and reading, handwoven baskets, stringbags (enjoying a renaissance), groovy leather vests, second-hand jewellery, paper craft, local honey and the island’s famous tamarind chutney. You won’t go hungry. Empanadas, waffles, tacos and artisan sausage rolls have their own stands, and there’s coffee, ice-cream and fig rolls at La Dolce Vita Italian Kitchen across the road.
8. Waiheke Community Art Gallery
Waiheke Island has creativity to burn. There are 39 artist studios, galleries and parks showcasing everything from oil paintings and watercolours to ceramics, bronze and glass sculptures, dolls, shoes, jewellery, mixed-media works and photography. The hub is the Waiheke Community Art Gallery in Oneroa, which shows off the spectrum of artistic endeavour (three exhibitions every four weeks) in a bright happy space. It’s also where you can pick up the invaluable Waiheke Art Map and find out about architecture tours, workshops and book launches. There’s a good gift shop, too. A revolving exhibition of new works from Waiheke artists is on show until July 18.
9. Flick Your Frocks
“Resale is the new retail” carols the team at new Flick Your Frocks, where browsing for pre-loved fashion is rewarded. At Greatest Friend, Angela Winter Means’s cool Oneroa store, find vintage clothes and newer items by “thoughtful makers”, such as Lela Jacobs, who create sustainably. Vintage silk kimonos that have been given a new lease of life can be found at the art gallery and craft shop attached to the three Nikau Luxury Apartments in Onetangi beach.
10. Holiday homes
The island has an abundance of accommodation options, from holiday cottages (baches) to clifftop and beachfront homes and estates overlooking Palm Beach, Kennedy Point, Oneroa and Onetangi. Mrs Jones (pictured, in Tahatai Road, Oneroa, a short drive from the ferry), with its old tennis racquets, cricket bats, vintage wooden toys and the local owners’ family photos, is a bach that evokes memories of holidays past, but with all the mod cons. The two-bedroom bungalow has a large modern kitchen, laundry, dining room and living area with snug Afghan throws, and a big veranda with views to Blackpool Bay, a duck-filled creek, native bush and well-kept garden.
This story was originally published in June 2021 and has since been updated.
