Skiing in New Zealand, from The Remarkables and Cardrona to Mount Ruapehu
New Zealand’s ski resorts are back in the run this season.
Victoria’s midwinter lockdown, the shifting goalposts of Covid restrictions and patchy snowfall combined to make last year’s ski season in Australia frustrating to say the least. The southern state’s latest lockdown means the allure of crossing the ditch in search of the white stuff may once again prove tempting for thousands of skiers and snowboarders.
As always, New Zealand has a lot going for it. The lift tickets are cheaper (sometimes half what you’d pay at an Australian resort), the snow is reliable and the mountains are – let’s be honest – proper mountains. Yes, gum trees are nice and all, but there’s something about the grandeur of the Southern Alps, or the thrill of skiing on an active volcano, that Australia just can’t compete with. Also, there’s the sudden novelty of going overseas.
Assuming the country stays on Covid-19 Alert Level 1 (the lowest level), there will be no limits on capacity at resorts, with the usual QR-code check-in protocols and masks on public transport applying.
So … passports ready?
North Island
Whakapapa and Turoa
Think skiing in New Zealand and most Australians will think Queenstown. But basing yourself in Auckland or Wellington can offer a well-rounded winter holiday, allowing you to enjoy big-city spoils and still zip off for a few days’ skiing.
Mount Ruapehu, the North Island’s highest mountain and an active volcano (sometimes alarmingly so, I can personally attest), is about 4 ½ hours’ drive from both major cities. There are two ski fields, Whakapapa and Turoa, and lift passes are interchangeable. Tickets are pricier than South Island resorts, but still cheaper than Australia, with weekday day-passes for $NZ74 ($69), or a family package for two adults and two children for $NZ299 a day. If you’re travelling on a budget expect to pay less for basic accommodation in the nearby towns of Ohakune and National Park than you would in Queenstown.
Weather is the constant wildcard at Mt Ruapehu, with storms and white-out conditions frequently closing the mountain. But on a bluebird day the mountain is magical, with views to nearby Mt Ngauruhoe (the stand-in for Mt Doom in the Lord of the Rings trilogy) and as far as Mt Taranaki on the west coast. The terrain is expansive and varied, and the snow usually excellent.
Try the fine on-mountain dining at New Zealand’s highest restaurant, The Pinnacles at Whakapapa’s Knoll Ridge Chalet, accessed via the new Sky Waka gondola. Whakapapa boasts a brilliant beginners’ area in Happy Valley, while Turoa has both Australasia’s highest chairlift (2322m) and the longest vertical drop (722m); July 3-October 25.
South Island
Queenstown’s Coronet Peak and The Remarkables, along with Christchurch’s Mt Hutt, are part of the international Ikon Pass (which also covers Thredbo and Mt Buller) and passholders get seven days’ access to the NZ ski fields.
SkiNZ, which owns the three resorts, has some enticing deals to lure back Australians, who before Covid made up about 40 per cent of visitors to Queenstown. A Ski Holiday Package includes three days of lift access, gear rental and transport to and from the slopes for $NZ439. A Private Family Experience (two adults, two children) is aimed at first-timers and includes help through the gear rental process, plus a guided day on the slopes with priority lift access for $NZ1149. Three-day adult lift passes are $NZ99 a day.
SkiNZ resorts also have a flexible refund policy, meaning if you can’t visit due to Covid restrictions you can get a full refund or have your pass roll over to next year.
Wanaka’s Treble Cone has interchangeable lift tickets and rentals with nearby Cardrona. A five-day pass costs just $NZ375 (with a blackout period of July 5-23), or $NZ716 including gear rental.
The Remarkables
Noteworthy not only for the skiing but the hair-raising drive up a steep mountain face to get there, The Remarkables feature wide bowls, seven terrain parks and giddying views back over Queenstown. The new Sugar Bowl Express chairlift gives access to 2.5km of fresh trails, freeing up what’s a relatively contained ski area. The resort is great for all levels and usually sunny and sheltered. If you’re not a daredevil driver, hop on the Ski Bus from Queenstown; June 26-October 17.
Coronet Peak
Just 20 minutes from Queenstown, Coronet Peak was NZ’s first commercial ski field, and is a great option for skiers wanting quick and easy access to the slopes from the city. From June 23-August 27 it will open for night skiing down floodlit trails (Wednesdays and Fridays from 4pm-9pm), which promises to be a true apres ski experience (unusual for NZ) with pizza, mulled wine and DJs spinning tunes. First tracks on groomed corduroy are available and the resort is also serviced by the Ski Bus; June 26-September 26.
Mt Hutt
Christchurch’s closest ski field – 115km from the city – will be launching the brand new Nor’west Express chairlift, NZ’s first eight-seater. It’s flagged to be more reliable on windy days than the quad chairlift it replaces (and with a ride time of only two minutes compared with seven minutes on the old lift). First tracks run every weekend from 8am-9am as a $NZ43 add-on. Children under 10 ski for free and for the non-skiers the resort offers guided sightseeing trips to the summit for views over the Canterbury Plains, riding the Summit Six chairlift; June 11-October 17.
Treble Cone
The South Island’s largest ski area (550ha) boasts views across Lake Wanaka to the pyramid of Mt Aspiring. Expect long trails, including a 4km groomed run, plus a generous amount of off-piste terrain. Expert skiers will revel in weaving through the rocks and down the black diamond chutes of the Motatapu Basin. The resort is a mecca for advanced skiers, but there are still plenty of options for beginners, including a gentle descent from the top of the Home Basin Express chairlift, plus free use of the magic carpet; June 26-September 26.
Cardrona
Roughly halfway between Queenstown and Wanaka, Cardrona is a favourite for families. With green runs dotted across the upper mountain, beginners won’t feel as if they are missing out on the views, and it also has a childcare centre for under-fives. There’s much to occupy intermediate and advanced skiers in the three vast basins, and world-class freestyle facilities for the tricksters, including Australasia’s only Olympic-sized halfpipe. The new Willow’s Quad lift (named after the cult film, Willow, some of which was shot at Cardrona) should smooth out the capacity issues that often clog the resort, opening up 65ha of terrain; June 12-October 17.
In the know
STAY
Queenstown
Matakauri Lodge (opens July 1); robertsonlodges.com/the-lodges/matakauri
Wanaka Whare Kea Lodge; wharekealodge.com
Mt Hutt
Sky Time; skitime.co.nz
Terrace Downs; terracedowns.co.nz
Mt Ruapehu
Nightsky Cottage; nightskycottage.co.nz
Chateau Tongariro; chateau.co.nz
FLY
Qantas and Jetstar operate about 29 return flights daily to Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and Queenstown from Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Gold Coast and Cairns. Air New Zealand operates about 25 return flights daily from Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Gold Coast, Sunshine Coast, Hobart, Adelaide Perth and Carins. Qantas is the only airline flying direct daily flights to Queenstown from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane.
