The world’s most beautiful fjords and how to see them
These extraordinary waterways can be found in Norway, Canada, Alaska, across the Tasman in New Zealand and – amazingly – in the desert.
Fjords, long, narrow sea inlets surrounded by steep cliffs, were created by glaciers that inexorably ground valleys through coastal landscapes over millions of years and several ice ages. The spectacular examples we see today in countries such as Norway, Greenland, Alaska, Chile, Antarctica and Canada are the result of glaciers melting and seawater flooding into the valleys. They can wind their way many kilometres inland and some are astoundingly deep – Norway’s Sognefjord plunges 1308m. The rugged scenery and often wildly remote settings offer adventures such as wildlife spotting, rock climbing, hiking and kayaking, as well as a first-hand lesson in geology. While fjords are arguably best seen from the water, some can be reached on foot, bike or road trip. These seven deliver drama and vistas that draw tourists from near and far.
FJORDS OF NORWAY
As “fjord” comes from an Old Norse word that (roughly) means “to travel across”, or to “ferry”, and Norway has more than any other country, it’s not surprising that the Norwegian fjords are the best known in the world, with almost 1200 braiding the coastal landscape. The most famous are the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Geirangerfjord and Naeroyfjord, plus Hardangerfjord, Nordfjord and Sognefjord, the 205km-long “King of Fjords”.
A cruise is one of the most popular ways of seeing these wonders, with cascading waterfalls, craggy snow-capped mountains and picturesque fishing villages. However, if the Norwegian parliament passes planned legislation to make Geirangerfjord and Naeroyfjord emissions-free zones by 2026, several cruise ships that currently sail there will be excluded. There is uncertainty about whether the laws will be enacted – at least by 2026 – but local cruise line Hurtigruten is already ahead of the game. By 2025, three of its ships will be upgraded to hybrid electric power and the remaining fleet will have cut carbon dioxide emissions by 25 per cent and nitrous oxide emissions by 80 per cent.
How to see it: Take Hurtigruten’s one-day Norway in a Nutshell itinerary before or after a longer cruise, or book it as a standalone tour and extend two or more days. The trip includes a train journey on the unbelievably scenic Flam Mountain railway from Bergen or Oslo and a cruise on Naeroyfjord.
EVIGHEDSFJORDEN, GREENLAND
The largest island in the world is not actually very green; most of its interior is covered with boundless areas of icy, rocky wilderness. Greenland is criss-crossed by complex systems of glaciers and fjords and one in particular, the beautifully named Evighedsfjorden (“fjord of eternity” in Danish), attracts adventurous travellers who really want to get away from it all. You can take boat tours of Evighedsfjorden from Maniitsoq, a little town 140km north of Nuuk, the capital. Maniitsoq is accessible from Nuuk by air (a 30-minute flight) and by boat with the Maniitsoq Tour Boat shuttle (about four hours). The region has also become something of a mecca for extreme skiers and heli-skiing addicts; Bill Gates was one of the first to discover the joys of being dropped onto mountain peaks in Evighedsfjorden that are up to 2km high.
Winter – between September and March when the nights are longest – is also the best time for seeing the Northern Lights. In spring and summer, Maniitsoq offers abundant opportunities for hiking, fishing, whale watching, sailing, and small-boat tours to the 100km long Evighedsfjorden. You’ll see and hear calving glaciers, seabirds soaring among sheer icy cliffs, and waterfalls thundering into the sea from great heights.
How to see it: Book a day-long boat tour with Maniitsoq Tour Boat, which operates ice-strengthened boats that can carry up to 12 passengers.
SAGLEK FJORD, LABRADOR PENINSULA, CANADA
Saglek Fjord is at the southern end of Torngat Mountains National Park, which stretches to the northern tip of Labrador and from the Atlantic coast to the Quebec border. There are no roads or permanent settlements in this vast wilderness, which means “place of spirits” in Inuktitut. Getting there is easiest by expedition ship and several lines include the breathtaking Navchek and Saglek fjords on their itineraries. Several of these waterways extend long distances from the rocky coastline into the wild mountain ranges, and the park is home to polar and black bears, caribou and wolves. Torngat has been an Inuit homeland for centuries and is owned and managed by Inuit people.
The expedition team onboard Adventure Canada’s Ocean Endeavour includes local experts who excel at telling cultural and personal tales of hunting, fishing and travelling in the region. From the Torngat Mountains base camp at Saglek Fjord there are several hikes of varying degrees of difficulty.
The easy route to a waterfall through crimson and gold Arctic berry patches among the snowy hills offers sublime views, but more rugged trekkers can opt for a higher and longer ridge walk that takes about four hours.
How to see it: Adventure Canada’s 15-day Greenland and Wild Labrador: A Torngat Mountains Adventure itinerary has departures in September 2024 and 2025.
SAGUENAY FJORD, QUEBEC, CANADA
To the west of Newfoundland and Labrador and much more accessible, Saguenay Fjord is surrounded by Parc National du Fjord-du-Saguenay in the southern part of Quebec province. The fjord is 105km long, navigable by boat and ship, and the only fjord in North America that is inhabited on both sides.
A 300km road trip from Quebec City (Route du Fjord) takes you through craggy mountains, towering cliffs beloved of adventurous climbers, dense forests, and charming French-Canadian villages. It’s a year-round destination for nature-lovers, offering activities ranging from sailing and kayaking to rock-climbing, hiking and ice-fishing. It’s well worth paying a visit to the Musee du Fjord along the way, to learn about the area’s rich cultural history as much as the wildlife. Peregrine falcons live on the cliffs and the waters are full of seals, trout and salmon. Look out for whales where the fjord meets the St Lawrence River, from lookout points organised by Parks Canada; you might spot beluga, blue, minke, fin or humpbacks.
How to see it: Although the round trip from Quebec City by car can be done in one day, it’s much more rewarding to allow a few days to fully enjoy the many natural attractions. Parc Aventures Cap Jaseux offers adventure tours, camping and stays in unusual accommodation such as a treehouse, log cabin, a 6m-diameter glass dome, or fibreglass bubble-spheres suspended from the trees.
capjaseaux.com
MISTY FJORDS, ALASKA, US
As in Norway, there are so many spectacular fjords along Alaska’s coastline it’s hard to pick just one to focus on. However, Misty Fjords in the Tongass National Forest is undoubtedly up there with the world’s best. Most of Alaska’s fjords aren’t accessible by road, which means a cruise is the best way to appreciate more than one of these awe-inspiring natural wonders in a single trip.
Ketchikan is the jumping-off point for floatplane and small-boat tours to Misty Fjords National Monument. Cruise lines and local operators offer a wide range of excursions but if you go local, it’s worth remembering what happened to some cruisers who recently missed their ship in Africa while on an independent tour and were left behind at the port.
Floatplane trips generally cover about 1½ to two hours, while boat tours can take up to five hours. Alaska Shore Tours combines a floatplane and catamaran experience in just under four hours. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife sightings, such as brown and black bears, moose, wolves and wolverines that prowl around the forests of the Misty Fjords. Humpbacks, Steller sea lions and harbour seals are often spotted in the pristine waterways.
How to see it:Seabourn tours of Misty Fjords National Monument include exploring the most remote areas (not navigable by the ship) by Zodiac, kayak and on a sightseeing vessel.
FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK, NEW ZEALAND
Fiordland National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site and includes Milford, Dusky and Doubtful sounds. Most cruise lines visiting New Zealand offer scenic cruising through the sounds but if you’re a keen walker, you can’t beat the views and experience of taking one of Fiordland’s Great Walks: the Milford, Kepler and Routeburn tracks. Milford Track is the best-known of the three. Starting in Te Anau, it covers 53km through mountains, lakes and enormous valleys to Sutherland Falls, the tallest waterfall in the country. You can walk it independently over four days and three nights and stay in New Zealand Department of Conservation huts; do the same on an escorted tour but stay in private huts or campsites; or tackle a day walk, with transport organised by Fiordland Outdoors Co. The Kepler Track is a 60km loop, accessible from Te Anau, and the Routeburn Track is 33km one way, usually starting at the Routeburn Shelter near Glenorchy and finishing near Te Anau. As with the Milford Track, you can take easier day hikes along part of the Kepler and Routeburn trails and still enjoy a thrilling immersion in this magnificent, unspoilt environment.
How to see it: Bookings for huts, campsites and guided walks are essential in the Great Walks season (late October to April).
MUSANDAM FJORDS, OMAN
These are the world’s only desert fjords, amid a starkly beautiful, burnt-orange and turquoise land and seascape that lies at the northern tip of the Sultanate of Oman. The Musandam Peninsula is separated from the rest of the country by a large chunk of the UAE. The fjords are accessed from the port town of Khasab, which is about two hours’ drive north of Dubai.
In recent years, Khasab has become a popular centre for 4WD adventures in the Hajar mountains and if you drive to the observation point above Khor Najd you have a fantastic view of cliffs and waterways. But why drive when you can take a dhow tour for a day that includes swimming, snorkelling, sightseeing and lunching on Omani dishes such as flatbread and hummus, chicken in saffron rice, fresh dates and halwa? A typical itinerary includes a sailing excursion along the coast of its largest inlet, Khor ash Sham, where you’ll see lovely old stone fishing villages, and visit Telegraph and Seebi islands. When the captain anchors, guests can swim and snorkel off the vessels in warm pristine water, while multitudes of sea birds swirl overhead and pods of dolphins play around the dhows.
How to see it: Several day-long sailing tours of the fjords by dhow operate from Khasab.