Sri Lanka’s best new walk is among the tea leaves
Stunning highland vistas, history and lots of cups of tea make the Pekoe Trail an unmissable experience.
At Amba Estate, a century-old tea plantation bordering Sri Lanka’s Uva Highlands, wildlife is prolific. It’s present in the chattering macaques dangling from low-lying branches above the open-air dining room; so too, in the haunting lilt of peacocks strutting through the farm’s searingly green fields.
At night, the rustlings I hear from my muslin-draped bed conceal myriad species far and near: mongooses in the rafters, then further off, porcupine, wild boar and even, so I am told, leopard. It’s a veritable Jungle Book idyll, where the estate’s own troupe of domesticated animals – dogs Baloo, Batu, Tigger, Mouse and Tommy, alongside its crew of slinky cats – coexist peaceably with wilder beasts.
I’m overnighting at this restful homestay as part of a walking tour along the country’s newly mapped Pekoe Trail. This 320km route tracks through the Central Highlands, and over five days I have followed paths used ever since the British established tea plantations here.
I have also toured tea factories, and of course, tasted numerous superb brews along the way.
Sri Lanka’s recent troubles, from the 2019 Easter bombings, the pandemic, through to last year’s mass protests against the government, have given way to much-needed calm, albeit coupled with an economic slump that sees me pretty much alone, even on the celebrated scenic train journey from Nanu Oya to Ella, about 40 minutes’ drive from here.
It makes, somewhat selfishly, for a peaceful visit. But guests are present at Amba Estate, admittedly mostly Sri Lankans; either schoolchildren who have come to learn about tea growing, or weekenders keen to escape frenetic Colombo.
This estate carries a fascinating history. Its original founder, Thamba Arunasalam Pillai, was an impoverished stonecutter from Tamil Nadu who learnt his skills as a labourer on a British-owned estate.
Unusually, he decided to start his own tea business, quickly rising to become one of the wealthiest men in Sri Lanka; a difficult feat in an industry dominated by the British. Today, the business has been revived by a partnership of four, including Briton Simon Bell and American John Roegner alongside the great-grandson of Pillai. Producing just 10kg a month, their organic teas are so esteemed that global high-end stores and restaurants have orders on repeat.
Pleasingly, Amba’s co-operative ideology means workers are involved in all aspects of production, which is rare in an industry where tea pickers, who earn little more than $3.50 a day, tend to remain pickers all their working lives.
“Our workers come to us during the final stages and ask, ‘How is my tea tasting?’ That’s how invested they’ve become,” says Neethanjana Senadheera, Amba’s production manager.
Neethanjana’s niche guest offering is a teaology food-pairing. I learn how green tea can offset spices, in this case, a delicious chilli-studded fish patty served with the brew, and how floral teas beautifully complement cucumber sandwiches. I also try Amba’s delicate Earl Grey, perfectly paired with moist lemon butter cake.
“I never recommend milk or sugar in our black teas – they neutralise the antioxidants and kill the health benefits,” he says. “It would be like adding Coca-Cola to wine.”
Alongside estate tours and tastings, Amba is above all a place to unwind. Simple but elegant rooms and suites are scattered around the main farmhouse.
Later, from my balcony, I’m treated to a mesmerising scene of silvered clouds scudding against jagged St Catherine’s Mount. Above, is soaring Lipton Seat, from where Scottish tea baron Sir Thomas Lipton surveyed his well-tended empire.
Equally lovely are convivial drinks around the log fire and dinners served at a long communal dining table. And memorable too, one of the Pekoe Trail’s finest walks to Ella Rock, where dreamy panoramic views combine with a return loop along the old railway tracks. Back at base, there’s afternoon tea on the sun-dappled terrace, and served alongside mouth-watering cake, are, of course, cups of excellent tea.
In the know
Experience Travel Group has an eight-night trip starting in Colombo, a stay at Amba Estate, with tea experiences, three guided sections of the Pekoe Trail and the Nanu Oya railway journey from $2480 including half-board accommodation, transfers, private chauffeur/guide and gratuities.
Louise Roddon was a guest of Experience Travel Group.
