This Queensland beach is the new Noosa
Peregian Beach has been long overlooked for its flashier neighbour but a new hotel and restaurants means it should be your next holiday destination.
After dipping a toe in the cornflower blue pool at Essence Peregian Beach, I decide that it’s too cold to swim, much to the astonishment of two Victorians who are already in the water.
But as the sun shimmies down behind the Sunshine Coast’s Mt Tinbeerwah, bathing the sky in a flamboyant wash of pink and orange, poolside turns out to be the perfect spot to savour a cocktail. I settle on to a daybed, sip a pina colada and survey the view over Noosa National Park, part of the traditional lands of the Gubbi Gubbi people.
Essence, which opened in July, is at the southern limits of Queensland’s first UNESCO biosphere reserve – a designation that recognises commitment to balancing biodiversity conservation with sustainable use.
On one side is coastal heath and woodlands, supporting vulnerable species such as ground parrots and wallum sedge frogs; on the other are the white sands of Peregian Beach leading down to the Pacific Ocean, a super-highway for migrating humpback whales.
Peregian Beach, the suburb, has long dwelt in the shadow of its flashier northern neighbour Noosa and has variously been dubbed “the new Noosa” and “better than Byron Bay”.
But the Noosa Shire’s youngest township is starting to carve out its own identity, with Essence owner Tony Scanlon of the Scanlon Group describing it as “the best location on the Sunshine Coast”.
Built on the site of a former caravan park after a more than decade-long battle with council, Essence is a three-storey 32-room boutique hotel comprised of studios and two-bedroom apartments, alongside 20 luxury beach houses ranging in size from three to five bedrooms.
In-house facilities include two guest pools (one with the pop-up bar I’m drinking at) and a gym. Restaurants, day spas, the beach, the boutique shops of the village at Peregian Beach are located a few minutes’ walk away, which means that crossing two lanes of traffic is the most challenging task you’ll have to encounter on your beach break.
After finishing my drink, I head upstairs to my two-bedroom hotel apartment.Upon opening the door, the first thing I notice is an ethereal scent, with whispers of lavender, rose geranium, tangerine, and ylang ylang. I later learn that this signature scent was custom blended by aromatherapist Tanya Ambrosini – just one way the hotel is championing local artisans.
The interior of the apartment is understated, with a look that marries Scandinavian minimalism and coastal chic, with crisp white walls, glossy timber-look floors and soft, textured carpets.
Decked out in subdued neutrals, the sun-drenched bedrooms have blackout curtains installed to suit those who’d rather sleep in than seize the sunny day.
There’s a full-sized kitchen and a living area containing caramel coloured leather lounge chairs, a two-seater sofa, and natural oak and rattan seating around a white marble dining table.
Lined with seafoam green tiles and stocked with products from Coolum Beach-based organic hair care brand EverEscents, the two bathrooms are equipped with rainwater showers, but no bath, so if this is important to you, best to book one of the beach houses.
Fifteen minutes’ drive north is my dinner destination of Humble on Duke at Sunshine Beach. Melding Modern Australian with Middle Eastern cuisine, this restaurant seats 14 people inside and 12 outside – so long as the weather’s good, which it almost always is, given the region gets an average of 300 sunny days a year. Owners Jade Tareha and Stacey Conner opened Humble on Duke three years ago after travelling the world together and wanting to create an elevated yet homely experience.
As the chef, Conner makes everything from pasta to ice cream from scratch, while Tareha handles front of house. When she sees me floundering in menu choices, she suggests, “Shall we just feed you?” I nod happily; the only decision required of those dining from the Feed Me menu is whether they want a “paddock or ocean” main.
What follows is a satisfying sucession of dishes including carrot soup topped with walnuts and curry butter, sabzi khordan with just-picked herbs and house-made pickles, freshly caught Maori cod and a chocolate brownie accompanied by hokey pokey (butterscotch) ice cream.
The generous repast means I’m a little sluggish the next morning as I make my way up Mount Coolum, a volcanic dome located about 15 minutes’ drive south. Keeping my eyes peeled for the resident echidnas and bandicoots, I follow a well-marked path through native bushland which soon becomes steep and rocky.
The Visit Sunshine Coast website warns that only “reasonably fit” walkers should attempt the climb, but this seems overly cautious. I spot a couple dressed in only togs and thongs and they seem to be making a decent fist of it. Whatever your state of fitness, the panoramic views of coastline and hinterland from the 208m summit make the climb worthwhile.
I head back towards Essence in time for a late breakfast.Though there’s no in-house restaurant, Outer Square, located next door in the Peregian Village Market and also owned by the Scanlon Group, functions as a de facto one.
I order the colourful caramelised French toast with lemon curd and berry compote and settle in to enjoy a cup of the signature coffee blend created in conjunction with Noosa company Clandestino.
The following morning, I’m up early for a full-day guided tour with Kanu Kapers through the Noosa Everglades – one of only two everglades systems in the world. (The other is in Florida, but it’s filled with alligators, taking tours like this off the table.)
As we cross Lake Cootharaba on our way to the upper reaches of the Noosa River, stingrays dart beneath our kayaks, their swishing tails raising mushroom clouds of sand.
Later, as I’m admiring sparkling water reflections on the underside of paperbark branches, sea eagles wheel overhead. I’m not surprised to learn that almost half of all Australia’s bird species are found here.
Afterwards, my sore arms and general state of exhaustion make Essence an even more appealing retreat.I am, finally, ready to relax and do nothing. Then again, the view from my balcony reveals that the pool bar is open again. And that cornflower blue water looks mighty inviting.
In The Know
Essence is 15 minutes from Maroochydore Airport and 1.5 hours from Brisbane Airport. Guestrooms from $350 a night and go up to a beach house.
Outer Square opens from 5.30am daily with dinner served Thursday to Saturday nights.
Humble on Duke’s Feed Me menu is $108 per person
Kanu Kapers offers one-day guided ($189 per person) and self-guided ($110) tours of the Noosa Everglades and Upper Noosa River.
Denise Cullen was a guest of Essence and Visit Sunshine Coast