Skiing in Japan: Where to stay

In-the-know skiers flock to these mountain resorts for piles of feather-light snow, dramatic scenery and soul-restoring ramen. Here, we round up 5 of the best.

The slopes of Niseko on Hokkaido, with Mount Yotei in the background. Picture: Getty Images

Cherry-blossom season in Japan has its devotees, but, as countless ski snobs are bound to tell you, the country’s other prime time is the dead of winter. According to the website SnowJapan, the compact mountainous archipelago is packed with about 450 ski areas – almost the same number you’ll find in the US. The northern island of Hokkaido and the central Nagano prefecture, both former hosts of the Winter Olympics, harbour the majority of ski destinations, which range from small family-owned hills to splashy multi-mountain resorts. What many of these spots have in common is “Japow”, the nickname (abbreviated from “Japan powder”) for the abundant, feather-light snow that rolls in from Siberia via storms over the Sea of Japan. But their off-slope offerings are also a big draw: soaking in a hot spring, downing a flight of sake, slurping up ramen or a shabu-shabu hot pot.

Here are five key destinations, each with a distinct appeal. Choose your own adventure. Consider operators with Australian branches such as Ski Japan, Snowscene and Oz Snow or for a bespoke trip with access to exclusive ski resorts and personalised experiences, consider Rachel Lang’s Plan Japan.

A snowboarder in Niseko, Hokkaido.

Higashiyama Niseko Village.

Best for luxury-loving hotel junkies

Niseko

On the island of Hokkaido, Niseko is arguably the most famous of Japan’s ski destinations and certainly among its ritziest. The main town of Hirafu is teeming with good bars and eateries, including izakayas (Japanese taverns), speakeasies with frequent whisky-tastings and the Michelin-starred, Japanese-French restaurant Kamimura. With an average of 12m of snow annually, the skiing is also tops. You’ll find diverse groomed and off-piste options at four linked resorts – Annupuri, Niseko Village, Grand Hirafu and Hanazono – collectively called Niseko United.

Where to stay: Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve with mountain views and onsens (hot springs), from about $560 a night; Zaborin, a luxurious ryokan, from about $940.

Hakuba Iwatake Snow Field and Mt Shirouma in Hakuba.

Best for slope variety and spectacular scenery

Hakuba Valley

Surrounded by the dramatic spires of the so-called Japanese Alps, Hakuba Valley is located in Nagano Prefecture on the main island of Honshu, about two hours from Tokyo via bullet train. For the complete experience, use a multi-resort pass to sample the valley’s 10 ski areas via shuttle bus. The largest, Happo-one, offers great intermediate runs. Hakuba Cortina features tree skiing. For a break, go see the celebrated snow monkeys that bathe in hot springs at Jigokudani Monkey Park.

Where to stay: At the base of Happo-one, Shirouma-so ryokan, a modern, family-owned Japanese inn, offers rates from about $200 a night.

The ski resort of Furano.

Best for earn-your-turns backcountry skiers and snowboarders

Furano

Given its central location, Furano is described, flatteringly or not, as the “bellybutton of Hokkaido”. Nestled in a broad valley, the spectacular setting looks on to big views of Daisetsuzan Kokuritsu Koen, Japan’s largest national park; fittingly, its name means “great snowy mountain”. With an average annual snowfall of around 4m, the area is also nicknamed the Hokkaido Powder Belt. Furano Ski Resort, accessed by a gondola and a fast cable car, offers beginner and intermediate cruising pistes. Since restrictions on off-piste skiing have gradually lifted over the years, powderhounds also flock here for some of Hokkaido’s best steep and deep back-country adventures. Refuel at one of the local izakayas such as Yuiga Doxon, known for Japanese curry with smoked sausages. For a shot of coffee culture and great lattes, try Baristart Coffee near the train station.

Where to stay: The Western-style Shin Furano Prince Hotel offers slope-side convenience from about $150 a night.

Rusutsu Resort Hotel in Japan.

Best for heli-skiing enthusiasts

Rusutsu Resort

“More of a traditional resort than a ski town” is how head ski guide Brent Potter, of Japan Ski Tours, describes the powder paradise of Rusutsu Resort. Rusutsu encompasses three ski areas connected by gondolas and lifts: the large East Mountain, with groomed trails; West Mountain, where Side Country Park features snowboarder jumps built into the forest; and Mount Isola, known for glade runs. (One lift ticket gives you access to all three.) The resort also operates the only heli-skiing available in Japan, run by Hokkaido Backcountry Club. Trips go to nearby Mt Shiribetsu; schuss the volcano’s steep ridges through deep powder and beautiful birch forest. Ready for some apres action? Rusutsu’s base is lined with bars and restaurants such as Ichifuji, a favourite known for tonkatsu made from locally sourced pork.

Where to stay: The Westin Rusutsu Resort high-rise, rates from about $465 a night.

Powder skiing at Nozawa Onsen Ski Resort in Japan.

Snow monkeys at the Jigokudani-koen in Nagano.

Best for onsen lovers who appreciate authenticity

Nozawa Onsen

A historic hot-springs village long before it became a ski resort, Nozawa Onsen is steeped in heritage. Located in northern Nagano, it’s a do-able day trip from Tokyo by the high-speed Shinkansen, but you’ll want to linger. Though there’s just one main ski area in town, it’s large and offers trails for all levels. After the slopes, avail yourself of the free traditional public bathhouses, known as soto-yu, such as the famous O-yu, housed in an old-fashioned wooden building. The restaurants, taverns and bars along the town’s narrow cobblestone streets are mostly authentic Japanese; try Izakaya Sakai for local dishes such as yakitori.

Where to stay: Ryokan Sakaya is a boutique Japanese inn with an assortment of baths, from about $180 a night.

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