Ponant cruise Greece
The Greek Islands is the ultimate playground for Ponant’s recently refurnished luxury vessel.
Like the flat, white wings of an Eastern Reef egret, the sails of Le Ponant glow against a blue sky, red sandstone gorges, olive groves and whitewashed buildings. No, that’s not right. Forgive me, I was trying to transplant this glamorous sailing ship to the Kimberley, where it’s heading next year, but the Greek Islands keep distracting me. After a day at sea on a seven-night cruise, we have arrived at Paxos, far removed from the northwest Australian coastline. The harbourfront is lined with colourful tavernas, bars and boutiques, while people swim nearby in the crocodile-free water of a pebbly beach. Squeezing between boats docked along the quay, a Zodiac delivers passengers to shore.
By chance, I have friends anchored in a nearby bay, so we meet for an Aperol Spritz. Nick and Dominika have been swanning around Greece on a private yacht, regularly jumping off, dining on fresh seafood, and topping up their tans along with their cocktails. Same, I say, same.
The 16-cabin Le Ponant is the ship for people whose friends don’t own yachts or whose yachts are not positioned in the right place at the right time. No such issue with Ponant, the French operator of this flagship of the fleet. The global company’s chiefs know where and when to go, and when they find the perfect place, they linger. High on the list are small, uncrowded ports, where local cultures flourish, and 32 passengers would leave the lightest of footprints. Since emerging from a refurbishment in August, Le Ponant has been circling the quieter Greek isles before heading to The Seychelles in November. From April, it will spend the dry season in the Kimberley, detached from the outside world for six months.
Chasing the sun across the globe can be exhausting, so this ever-voyaging vessel likes to rest. While we switch off, so too does Le Ponant, sailing purely on wind power when conditions permit. Without the rumble and vibration of engines, a deeper level of relaxation resonates across the decks.
On land, we also ease into the slow pace of yachting life, rather than taking organised tours. In Paxos, there are no shore excursions; just a day to explore independently. A 10pm departure allows time for dinner ashore; however, everyone returns for the chef’s signature menu, served on the ship’s al fresco terrace. An amuse-bouche of avocado, crab meat and caviar is followed by an entree of foie gras and roasted peach chutney on brioche. After a main course of veal fillet with morel mushrooms and Darphin potatoes, chef Cedric Diebold has some fun with a restyled Snickers ice cream.
Next morning we wake in Fiskardo, a fairytale fishing village on the northern tip of Kefalonia. This port is the only part of the island where the old Venetian architecture survived an earthquake in 1953, as featured in the book and film Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. A waterfront row of seafood restaurants blush with pink flowers draped across awnings. Handwritten blackboard signs list octopus, squid, sea bass, swordfish, moussaka and pastitsio. But it’s too early for lunch so a shuttle has been organised to Emblisi Beach, sheltered by chalk cliffs, a few minutes away.
A more exclusive swimming spot is the ship’s sea pool, which is set up in the middle of the ocean. This inflatable, rectangular frame is attached to the stern marina platform, with a net to protect swimmers from whatever lurks below. Again, I’m imagining how this might work in Australia, but it doesn’t look sufficiently croc-proof. (Instead, in the Kimberley, guests may be taken to freshwater swimming holes.)
Another beach day is offered at Kythnos, where a section of sunbeds and beanbags is reserved for Ponant. The ship’s fitness coach, Johanna, kickstarts the morning with a class of aqua aerobics, while spa therapist Elaura provides shoulder massages. Stand-up paddleboards and handheld sea scooters, which pull you along underwater, provide hours of giggly fun.
A group lunch has been booked at beachside cafe Baicco for a Mediterranean feast with panoramic views. My tablemates are new friends made on board the ship. Bernadette and Cody are a Canadian couple celebrating their 30th anniversary, and Catherine’s a Frenchwoman, travelling solo, like me. The smiles on our faces are as big as the Greek salads, pork loins and fresh fish on our plates.
Afterwards, we return to the ship for a drink with the crew, enjoying cocktails prepared by Ludovic and Jeffrey. (We’re on a first-name basis with the bar staff by now.) Captain Pascal Goger thanks everyone for supporting Le Ponant, a 31-year-old vessel with an overhaul that has clearly paid off, thanks to the chic new design by Jean-Philippe Nuel Studio.
Interiors have been transformed with a brighter, minimalist style. The main lounge has shed its dark wood theme, going from brunette to blond. Shades of taupe and ivory, with splashes of nautical navy, flow through to the bar, library and outside decks. Most impressive is a dramatic reduction in the number of staterooms. Unlike cruise lines that increase berths to sell more fares, Ponant halved the capacity from 64 passengers in 32 cabins to a maximum 32 passengers in 16 cabins. Each of these options, including a 56sq m owner’s suite, received new bathrooms, furniture, flooring, walling and blinds.
Among other enhancements are a redesigned marina deck with stylish, curved furniture; revamped dining room that extends outdoors; more sunbathing space on the sun deck; and new outdoor decking, indoor flooring and lighting. The wellness offering has also improved, with a small gym and daily yoga, pilates or stretching sessions. A spa treatment room has been added.
The ship is equipped with two Zodiacs, which will increase to four by the time it arrives in the Kimberley. State-of-the-art fishing gear has also been purchased, which the crew use to catch tuna (and soon, barramundi). In line with the company’s commitment to responsible tourism, a filter system eliminates fine particles and cuts emissions by 90 per cent. Single-use plastics are banned, bottles are provided to refill at water stations, and waste is managed using eco-safe technology.
The reduced passenger capacity has also raised the standard of personalised service. With 34 crew members, Le Ponant’s guest-to-staff ratio is greater than 1:1. From the welcome aboard to the lack of strict schedules, it feels more like a boat charter than a cruise. But rest assured that all the usual trimmings are available – a friendly butler on call, complimentary drinks, afternoon tea with French pastries or crepes, and Swarovski binoculars and sunhats for use on board.
Australian cruise industry legend Sarina Bratton was instrumental in bringing these luxuries Down Under, hand-picking Le Ponant for the 2023 Kimberley season. “The ability to take our guests to lesser known but equally enriching destinations along this coastline is exciting,” Bratton says. “Small gatherings ashore in ancient caves, bespoke and unique pearling experiences with Paspaley, the whisper of the wind, a glass of Veuve Clicquot in hand as we sail along this ancient landscape – there has been nothing like this in the Kimberley.”
In her role as Ponant’s Asia-Pacific chairman and special adviser to the executive, Bratton draws on her experience as the founder of the now-defunct Orion Expedition Cruises 20 years ago. Orion sailed largely in the Kimberley, as well as Indonesia and Papua New Guinea, so it would not be surprising to find Le Ponant venturing to more Pacific islands in the near future. The ship’s three decades in paradise prove any dream is possible.
In the know
The Kimberley region of WA will be Le Ponant’s base between April and October next year. The luxury yacht will depart on 26 sailings of three itineraries across that period. The Southern Kimberley itinerary visits the Buccaneer Archipelago, Montgomery Reef and the Horizontal Falls. The Northern Kimberley route features King George River Gorge and its twin falls, Gwion Gwion rock art sites and Prince Frederick Harbour. Both itineraries include a charter flight between Broome or Kununurra and Kuri Bay on Paspaley’s vintage Grumman Mallard seaplane (right), plus a guided tour of the company’s pearl farms. From $16,860 a person twin-share for a seven-night expedition including meals, drinks, excursions and transfers, and two nights’ pre-cruise hotel accommodation. The eight-night Rowley Shoals Sailing Expedition focuses on diving and snorkelling locations, the Buccaneer Archipelago, Montgomery Reef, Horizontal Falls and the Lacepede Islands. From $14,170 a person twin-share including meals, drinks, excursions and transfers. Four departures in the Kimberley season will cater to the line’s French-speaking clientele. Ponant also operates the 200-passenger Le Soleal and 170-passenger Le Laperouse in the region, with bilingual crew.
Louise Goldsbury was a guest of Ponant.