Hate crowds? Australia’s best secret beaches
Forget battling the hordes at Byron Bay, St Kilda or Balmoral – we’ve uncovered the greatest hidden swimming spots around the country.
It’s a baking summer’s day. You’ve battled the traffic to reach your favourite stretch of sand only to find the car park full, the beach jam-packed with sweaty humans, and cabanas the size of caravans jostling for real estate under a blazing sky. Unless you’re an avid people-watcher with little regard for personal space, this is a beachgoer’s nightmare. There are alternatives. Swap your hot-and-bothered persona for something more quiet and serene. Every crowded beach has an alter ego – and this list will help you find a place in the sun.
Queensland
Hot spot: Noosa Main Beach, Sunshine Coast
Alter ego: Tea Tree Bay Beach
Tea Tree Bay Beach at Noosa Heads, one of four in Noosa National Park, is the first reached on the designated Coastal Walk, starting from Laguna Bay. It’s unpatrolled and delightfully free from posing sun-worshippers, but recommended only for strong swimmers. This scoop of soft sand and clear water faces north-northwest, and picnickers spread out on flat rocks or grass shaded by broad-leafed pandanus. Rock pools are home to crabs, sea anemones and flitting fish – and are fun to explore at low tide. The well-named Dolphin Point Lookout is a great spot for seasonal sightings and Noosa National Park is a wildlife sanctuary so look for koalas bundled in branches in the eucalypt forest.
Hot spot: Surfers Paradise, Gold Coast
Alter ego: Tugun Beach
Forty minutes by road from the party end of the Gold Coast, Tugun – or Tugz, as the locals call it – delivers faraway vistas north to the high-rises and south to Snapper Rocks. It’s relatively well protected but popular with surfers thanks to its consistent breaks, which form part of the Goldie’s 16km World Surfing Reserve. Tugun is known for its retro vibe – fancy a lime milk shake and Chico Roll? – and even pooches are welcome (on a leash beyond the patrolled zone). Behind the dunes are parklands with picnic and barbecue facilities, while the Oceanway, a 36km coastal route, can take walkers, joggers and cyclists all the way back to the action – if they must.
Hot spot: Whitehaven Beach, Whitsunday Island
Alter ego: Chalkies, Haslewood Island
You’ll find the same soft white silica sand that has earned its neighbour “best beach in the world” status. Chalkies, however, won’t be swamped by tour groups, helicopter joy-riders and young lovers dropping to one knee to film an Instagram-perfect proposal. Surrounded by a fringing reef, it’s a top spot for snorkelling and harbours a wide range of marine life, including hawksbill and green turtles that munch on seagrass meadows. Just a short walk into the bush takes you to a lookout that affords spectacular views over the bay and beyond.
Hot spot: Cairns Lagoon
Alter ego: Ellis Beach
Anyone who’s visited Cairns knows how popular the sprawling lagoon swimming pool is when hot weather arrives. Venture 30 minutes north, however, and you’ll find Ellis Beach, a castaway-style stretch just past Palm Cove on the glorious Great Barrier Reef Drive. Backed by palm trees and dense rainforest, there’s not much here except a caravan park and a patrolled netted zone to keep swimmers safe from stingers. Locals have an enduring love for the Ellis Beach Bar & Grill where Sundays bring $2 oysters and live music. Sunrise over the Coral Sea is particularly eye-popping. Alternatively, head up to the Atherton Tablelands where fresh water tumbles over granite boulders at Josephine Falls in Wooroonooran National Park.
Tasmania
Hot spot: Richardsons Beach, Freycinet
Alter ego: Friendly Beaches
Richardsons Beach, in Freycinet National Park, is one of the most famous in Tasmania, and for good reason given its pristine water and gobsmacking views of The Hazards mountain range. Unfortunately, these drawcards also lure crowds on warm summer days. A short drive away is Friendly Beaches. Despite also being on the tourist trail, this series of coves is rarely busy and promises lengthy, wild ramblings. Expect beautiful sand dunes, scenic outlooks, and most importantly, serenity. Watch out for rips and rough surf as the area is not patrolled.
Hot spot: Kingston Beach, Hobart
Alter ego: Boronia Beach
Kingston Beach, on Hobart’s suburban southern fringe, has a pontoon offshore, occasional visiting seals, sail boat races – and hordes of locals. Instead, take a short walk along a coastal track south to Boronia Beach. It’s a small hidden spot accessible only on foot, with caves and rocks to explore and forest down to the beach. Pack a picnic and enjoy a secret slice – and rewarding views – of the stunning Derwent Estuary.
Victoria
Hot spot: Half Moon Bay Beach, Port Phillip Bay
Alter ego: Edward Street Beach
Half Moon Bay Beach, in Black Rock, about 40 minutes from Melbourne, has long been a favourite among locals seeking a swim in Port Phillip Bay followed by salty battered fish and chips on the jetty as the sun sets. But this small beach gets very busy in summer and finding a space on the sand for your towel can be challenging. An easy solution is the quiet beach preceding it called Edward Street Beach. It is separated, and almost hidden, by a rocky headland known as Red Bluff. The path down to the water is not that easy to find from the road the first time, but you are well and truly rewarded with a tranquil beach and even a view on to Half Moon Bay. Watch the crowds fight it out as you lie back and smugly enjoy the peace.
Hot spot: Sorrento Front Beach, Mornington Peninsula
Alter ego: Somers Beach
Historic Sorrento, along with Portsea, is one of the most popular spots on the Mornington Peninsula. It has lake-like beaches on the Port Phillip Bay side as well as surf-facing Bass Strait. Settled in the 1860s, it is full of striking sandstone buildings, pubs and holiday homes built by Melbourne’s elite. It is also a traffic trap during summer and you can spend hours inching along the only road in and out. A much better option is Somers, on the Western Port Bay side of the peninsula, which is refreshingly free from crowds and millionaires. You might spot a dolphin or two on this quiet haven of a beach, and it is just a couple of minutes’ drive to the food and wine areas of Merricks, Point Leo and Red Hill.
Hot spot: St Kilda Beach, Melbourne
Alter ego: Elwood Beach
St Kilda Beach, on Port Phillip Bay, has plenty to recommend it: good restaurants, a pier, calm water and a pleasant path on which to stroll or rollerblade. The problem is everyone else has the same idea when summer finally hits the Victorian capital. Getting a park anywhere nearby is impossible, but drive just five minutes south and you’ll find Elwood Beach, which has the same sandy foreshore and gentle waters but a lot more parking. It is also backs on to Elwood Park and Point Ormond Reserve for added greenery. Waterfront restaurant Elwood Bathers serves delicious seafood.
New South Wales
Hot spot: Hyams Beach, Jervis Bay
Alter ego: Callala Beach
The gleaming sand and crystal-clear water of Hyams Beach on the south coast are renowned worldwide. If you believe what you read on the internet, this corner of Jervis Bay has the whitest sand in the world. That myth has been debunked by scientists who awarded the title to Lucky Bay, in Western Australia, but that hasn’t stopped thousands of visitors flocking here to see it for themselves. The seaside village becomes so busy that traffic wardens are brought in to try to keep things moving. A much better alternative is Callala Beach, about 30 minutes’ drive from the chaos, where you can park virtually anywhere. A few steps along a sandy path through the bush reveals a long and almost empty beach with the same white sand and turquoise waters. You can even catch a water taxi from Callala to the Huskisson Hotel for lunch and a glass of wine in the sun.
Hot spot: Balmoral Beach, Sydney
Alter ego: Chinamans Beach
Balmoral Beach, on Sydney’s north shore, is a picture-perfect harbour beach, complete with waterside eatery The Boathouse making it the perfect spot to while away an afternoon. It would also have to take the mantle for the city’s most expensive beachside parking (or maybe share it with Bondi). Drive about five minutes north, however, and you’ll discover Chinamans Beach, which has a similarly idyllic setting. It’s part of Rosherville Reserve, so trees overhang the sand, providing shade along with the pretty sight of frangipanis dropping and floating in the water. Reasonably priced street parking is available for those who arrive early; other facilities include a playground, neat amenities block and visiting boats that sell ice-cream.
Hot spot: Byron Bay, Northern Rivers region
Alter ego: Broken Head
Refreshingly distanced from the earnestly hip hub of Byron Bay, Broken Head harks back to an innocent age of long days spent beachcombing and exploring the miniature worlds of ocean rock pools. This secluded little sandy arc is backdropped by a nature reserve with several rainforest walking trails, including one that winds around the headland to the clifftop Three Sisters lookout. Time your visit for the annual whale migration in spring and you may spot a mother and calf en route south to Antarctica. The picnic area has tables, toilets, barbecues, drinking water and showers. A national parks pass (multi parks pass, $65 a year) is required for free parking, otherwise you’ll fork out $4 an hour.
Western Australia
Hot spot: Lucky Bay, near Esperance
Alter ego: Twilight Cove
Social media has made Lucky Bay a must-see destination thanks to those happy snaps of cute kangaroos lazing on chalky sand. Instead of joining the convoy driving east from Esperance to Cape Le Grand National Park, head in the opposite direction along the Great Ocean Drive to Twilight Cove. Take sunglasses because the sand here is glaringly white and the water impossibly blue and as still as a bath (though not nearly as warm). Granite rocks worn smooth by the ocean are perfect perches for lounging, and at high tide energetic swimmers paddle out to a large outcrop to show off their dive-bombing skills. Keep an eye out for the ice-cream van, too. The beach is patrolled on weekends.
Hot spot: Injidup Beach, Margaret River
Alter ego: Castle Rock
Instagram, Facebook and Co are also responsible for the throngs lining up at Injidup to take photos of the natural “spa” formed when waves crash over the rocks. Equally as impressive for its granite formations, but free from social-media snappers, is Castle Rock Beach, on the east side of Cape Naturaliste. This compact bay is protected from westerly busters and usually fairly flat in the swell stakes. Go in the late afternoon when the descending sun’s rays paint the imposing “castle” a vivid orange. A Margaret River gem, and a good alternative to Meelup, too, when it’s heaving.
Hot spot: Cable Beach, Broome
Alter ego: Coconut Wells
About 30 minutes’ drive north of Broome and away from “staircase to the moon” chasers and long lines of tourist-toting camels, you’ll find Coconut Wells. This sheltered lagoon fills with water during the Kimberley’s notorious high tides, creating a huge sandy-bottomed swimming pool. When the sea retreats six hours later, dozens of cerulean rock pools are exposed amid the pockmarked limestone on the ocean side, creating natural bathtubs to soak in. Visitors can witness the phenomenon by driving to the hamlet of the same name and walking for 15 minutes, or take a 4WD along the sand all the way from Cable Beach (low tide only).
South Australia
Hot spot: Glenelg, Adelaide
Alter ego: Port Noarlunga, Fleurieu Peninsula
With a coastline stretching more than 4000km serving a state population of 1.8 million – that’s 2.2km of shore for every person – South Australia has no shortage of beaches away from the masses. So, give Glenelg a swerve and zoom south to the Fleurieu Peninsula, where Port Noarlunga offers beachgoers plenty of room to move. Take your pick from the sandy mouth of the Onkaparinga River, the long reach of Southport Beach, or the curve up to the jetty and down to the southern lookout. You’re spoilt for choice.
Hot spot: Long Beach, Robe, Limestone Coast
Alter ego: Salmon Hole, Beachport
The popular holiday town of Robe can be overrun in the warmer months. While visitors might struggle to get away from the crowds and 4WDs at Long Beach, those in the know venture south, past lakes Eliza, St Clair and George (with its abundant birdlife) to the little town of Beachport. Wedged between Snapper Point and Post Office Rock is a 600m semicircle backed by steep dunes. A rocky reef a short distance from shore creates a lagoon, making this a gentle option for paddlers and snorkellers. As the name suggests, it’s a popular spot for fishing, but an easier option is grabbing a crayfish or two from the Lobster Pot in town. Access is via the car parks at either end of the beach.
Northern Territory
Hot spot: Darwin Waterfront
Alter ego: Florence Falls
We don’t want the NT to feel left out but as readers know, there are some large reptiles that present challenges to swimmers in the Top End. Litchfield National Park, just over 100km south from Darwin, offers relief during the steamy summer and its cascades can be particularly impressive during the wet season. Walk the 3.2km trail from Florence Falls to Buley Rockhole and reward yourself with a swim at each end. Or head to Wangi Falls, which flows year round and has a shaded picnic area and cafe.
Did we miss any beaches? How do you escape the crowds? Leave your suggestions in the comments below.