Dark Mofo’s Leigh Carmichael shares his winter guide to Tasmania
Dark Mofo’s Leigh Carmichael is somewhat of an expert when it comes to enjoying the wintertime in Tasmania. Here, he shares his must-dos.
You will be hard pressed to find anyone who loves winter in Tasmania as much as Leigh Carmichael.
Not only is he the Creative Director of the Apple Isle’s biggest winter festival, Dark Mofo, but he’s also created a guide to the state that showcases the magic of those cold, cosy months, followed by the promise of the spring to come.
“To sit by an open fire with a Tasmanian Pinot Noir is a peak experience,” he says “The colder months offer us a time of stillness, beauty and silence … to appreciate our natural landscape and the colourful return of the warmer months.”
“We’ve also got a couple of good festivals,” he adds.
Carmichael’s forthcoming 2023 Dark Mofo will be his last in the role of creative director of the Museum of Old and New Art’s rebellious winter art and music festival, to be held from June 8-22. And despite being one of Tasmania’s largest tourism drawcards, there’s an abundance of other destinations working in its favour.
In this guide, Hobart-based Carmichael debunks the misconception that you can see the entire state in only a few days, with a full week’s worth of touring Tasmania’s flourishing food, wine and creative scenes laid out in one dreamy itinerary.
EAT
The best of brunch: If you’ve travelled to Hobart before, Room for a Pony was likely on your hit list. Located in North Hobart, the cafe and bar has become a neighbourhood staple among locals. Carmichael suggests heading there for brunch, great coffee and sunlight. There’s both indoor and outdoor seating in a light and airy courtyard, perfect for soaking in Tasmania’s changing seasons.
With three menus for breakfast, lunch and dinner, there’s sure to be something for everyone. Carmichael’s go to is the Chinese fried chilli omelette served on rice with oyster sauce, fried shallots, chilli jam and spring onion. “It’s next level”, he says. Other dishes included scrambled silken tofu, huevos rancheros and wood fired meatballs.
A taste of Tasmania:The Source at Mona boasts an award-winning wine list, breathtaking views and an innovative menu showcasing the best of Tasmania’s food scene. Carmichael says going for lunch is always a great experience, thanks to Chef Vinnie Trim’s “interesting and playful” menu. Think pan roasted local line caught fish, seared southern calamari, Tasmanian scallops, squid ink and lentil puree, salsa verde, winter greens and squid ink tuile. Or, for something a little sweeter, a brioche doughnut filled with sweet corn and saffron custard, served with stracciatella, grilled baby corn, macadamia pesto and chilli oil.
A meal worth remembering: “The most memorable meal I have ever eaten in Tasmania was a whole Rock Lobster at Stillwater Restaurant in Launceston last year”, reveals Carmichael. Located in Stillwater Seven, a food and accommodation destination in the northern Tasmanian city, the restaurant has become an institution due to its easy service, astounding food – which is all locally sourced – and extensive wine list. With a seasonal menu, items come and go. For autumn, don’t miss trying Tasmanian wallaby with sake and mushroom, rainbow chard, adzuki beans, black barley and Tokyo turnip or the Koji aged eye filled with freekeh, beetroot, green beans, whipped horseradish butter and tamari.
For evening drinks: Tom McHugo’s is a favourite drinking spot for locals, “with really good meals starring local and seasonal produce”, says Carmichael. Found on Macquarie Street in Hobart’s CBD, the gastropub serves delicious seasonal dishes that reimagine typical pub-grub. Meals like fennel braised in chicken stock with basil and fried breadcrumbs and broccoli sautéed with spiced lamb mince and tomatoes have been a few recent additions to the menu. “It’s always a good atmosphere, especially on a Friday night for afterword drinks,” he says.
The same goes for In The Hanging Garden, Hobart’s live music and cultural precinct that features a casual beer garden, cocktail bars and kitchens including Oryza for pan-asian bites, Mother Mexico for street-food inspired dishes, and Pizza Pizza for, you guessed it, pizza.
STAY
A city stay: Carmichael recommends staying in The Tasman, a 152 room hotel located in the heart of Hobart near the banks of the Derwent River. Combining historic 1940s Art Deco influences with contemporary design, it’s an adult sanctuary that’s reached by entering through an ethereal stone archway. Mary Mary bar is cool and cosy for enjoying a light snack, ranging from freshly shucked oysters with elderflower Mignonette to marinated octopus with pinkeye potatoes and watercress, and sipping on a cocktail, like a classic martini or an old fashioned.
Adults-only estate: Nestled at the foothills of Mount Wellington is The Islington Hotel, a stately 1847 homestead that has been transformed into a luxurious 11-room dwelling ideal for couples looking to unwind. “It’s a grand old estate home with gardens and a private art collection,” he says. Art, history and culture are resplendent at The Islington Hotel, providing guests with their own museum.
For a more family oriented trip, Carmichael suggests heading to the East Coast for its beaches, or Cradle Mountain in the Central highlands for its stunning nature and walks.
PLAY
Day-tripping: A trip to Richmond is worth the half-hour drive, a historic town in the Midlands of Tasmania, founded in the 1820s. “I absolutely love the antique stores over there, and you’ll find excellent second hand vinyl if you look hard enough,” Carmichael says. Try Walter & Co and Warwick Oakman Antiques for some quality, hard-to-find pieces. Before you leave, be sure to stop by The Richmond Bakery, which is tucked away in a sunny courtyard. Known for having the best pies in Tasmania, including the state’s famous curried scallop pie, and delicious fruit tarts, it’s become a beloved neighbourhood bolthole. “It’s an institution, and there’s a lolly shop called Sweets and Treats that is a must,” adds Carmichael.
Mix and match: Tasmania is a melting pot for travellers. Whether it’s a cultural fix, bucket-list adventure or epicurean holiday they’re after, the state delivers in one way or another. Carmichael suggests heading to Mona for the day on the MR-1 Ferry to explore the museum’s eclectic collection, along with a few new exhibitions, like Tomas Saraceno’s Oceans Of Air. The museum is only open from Thursday to Monday, and bookings are essential.
A few nights up at Cradle Mountain in the snow is the perfect little adventure for visitors opting for a longer stay. Otherwise, Carmichael says a trip to Bruny Island is a “perfect day or overnighter”. Getting there involves a 40-minute drive from Hobart to Kettering where a vehicular ferry awaits for a 20 minute crossing. Be sure to stop by Bruny Island Cheese and Beer Co for tastings and a selection of artisan cheese and craft beers before heading to Get Shucked Oyster Bar for a platter of fresh oysters. The iconic Cape Bruny Lighthouse is located on the south end of the island, where tours occur regularly throughout the day.
Leigh’s top five
- Brunch at Room for a Pony
- Stay at The Tasman Hotel
- Day trip to Richmond
- Ferry ride to Mona
- Explore Bruny Island