Hotel review: The Tasman, Hobart
Some hotels are worth the wait, and this is one.
Some hotels are worth the wait, and this is one. The Tasman, the first of Marriott’s top-tier Luxury Collection to debut in Australia, is splendid. As I arrive for the long-anticipated opening, a blustery wind swirls up Murray St from the Derwent River, tossing the hair and skirts of a small group gathered at the entrance for the official ceremony. A rope, not a ribbon, is cut, referencing the property’s nautical connections, and we sail inside.
There have been many delays leading to the opening of The Tasman, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Hobart (to give the property its full name). Obstacles arose not only because of Covid but “the incredible intricacy of the project”, says hotel general manager Stephen Morahan. The hotel has three street frontages, knitting together a trio of buildings in Hobart’s historic parliament precinct: the early 19th-century former St Mary’s hospital, curvaceous art deco government offices and contemporary Pavilion building pointing like the prow of a ship towards Sullivans Cove. The meticulous restoration resolving stone with glass, timber and metal has taken more time than anyone could have imagined but the results are delightful.
The hotel is entered through a historic stone archway, then sliding glass doors into a pared-back reception area. An untitled Huon pine sculpture, like the skeleton of a beached boat, by Tasmanian artist Nick Randall strikes an ethereal note in this area, where an almost Scandinavian sensibility prevails (Randall’s piece is one of several dozen commissioned works scattered throughout hotel).
Joseph Pang Design Consultants sets the scene with the refined use of local timbers, sandstone and glass; even the flowers fit the mood, minimal in execution; a few leucadendrons and billy buttons arranged like living sculptures. Check-in is a civilised affair. House-made petits fours are proffered and paperwork dispensed with swiftly, and I’m impressed by the friendly efficiency of the staff, who’ve trained almost entirely in a tourism vacuum (the hotel opens only days before Christmas and 48 hours after borders reopen).
Tasmania’s only Clefs d’Or concierge, the lovely James Nobleza, recently arrived from Sydney, is on hand to whistle up coffee and offer personalised tours of his new neighbourhood (when we explore Salamanca Market the following morning, he seems already to be on first-name terms with half the stall holders). He also lends a hand navigating the hotel. Given the property’s unique architectural quirks, I’m a bit adrift at the outset; there are different lifts for different wings as interiors gently morph from building to building. Some entrances seem deliberately hidden. Locating the cool but cosy Mary Mary bar, for example, is an adventure, down a secret sandstone alleyway over uneven cobbles to arrive at a dark blue door with discreet signage.
The hotel has only 152 guestrooms but about 52 room types across the three buildings. The seven premium suites include the spectacular Aurora sitting atop the Pavilion, with an enormous outdoor terrace featuring a fire pit and long views across Sullivans Cove.
The loveliest is the St David’s Park Suite in the Heritage wing, nestling beneath a soaring ceiling that resembles an upturned boat hull. Many of St Mary’s original construction crew were boat builders and this nautical motif is carried across the hotel through to the property’s twined-rope logo. This suite’s ceiling is so high the contemporary timber furniture has been slotted in like prefabricated buildings; a large dressing room inserted like a lozenge and outsize four poster helping to balance proportions. A sensual bath fashioned from Tasmanian blackwood is stunningly beautiful, more sculptural installation than tub.
Attention to detail throughout the hotel is exceptional, from the contemporary light fittings (in the guestrooms an angular gold “chandelier” resembles an exploding star) to the timber-lined lifts, the tactile handrails retaining the scent of a recently sawn log.
In the Deco wing there are Tasmanian sassafras timber inlaid ceilings, and in some heritage bathrooms, sliding timber doors are operated by an old-fashioned (and I’d guess unbreakable) rolling mechanism that’s rather Steampunk.
The sandstone Heritage wing, with its wide corridors and high ceilings, is most in demand, says Morahan. In room 342 I’m like the princess and the pea perched in my huge bed, nestling into a fluffy Tassie sheepskin. There are delightful design details everywhere: a contemporary armoire with elegant, curved corners, marble bathroom with oversized robes and handmade soaps from Jill Saunders, of Beauty and the Bees (check out her stall at Salamanca Market). A marble-topped credenza conceals the minibar with a clever fridge drawer.
Proper five-star service includes shoeshine and a turndown with slippers and a little chocolate (or if you’re lucky, a rather wicked spurt of whisky wrapped in dark chocolate).
Culinary director Massimo Mele oversees signature restaurant Peppina, named for his nonna. This lively space introduces a chic Mediterranean element to the hotel, the southern sun streaming through a glass ceiling on to large potted olive trees. Exposed sandstone and reclaimed bricks, inviting leather booths and a huge open kitchen make for a lively, cosmopolitan atmosphere while Mele’s menu celebrates home cooking: fresh pasta, Tassie oysters, pork with crackling and wicked spuds that would make his grandmother proud.
During the Covid hiatus, Mele worked with local farmers and fishers, intercepting produce such as luscious clams normally bound straight for the mainland, and redirecting them to his kitchen. “I also did a lot of pickling,” he says with a laugh. In the future, the chef will offer guests cooking lessons in his own large vegetable garden. Breakfast is also served in Peppina, a la carte and a superior buffet with cured fish and meats, cheese and salads, local pot-set yoghurt, savoury tarts, and a small but delectable selection of pastries, including Italian doughnuts.
The hotel’s other restaurant, the casual Deco Lounge with outdoor terrace overlooking Parliament Square, serves light lunches and fancy afternoon teas. With its geometric carpets and stylish leather tub chairs, it’s the perfect spot for a Tasmanian lobster roll or glass of local pinot.
As for location, The Tasman’s position is so central that on Saturday morning I need only step out the back door to find myself in the heart of Salamanca Market and its apron of galleries and cute stores.
This lovely hotel makes an elegant addition to Tasmania’s tourism portfolio and continues a commitment to the highest quality produce and exceptional arts and crafts for which the island is celebrated.
In the know
The Tasman, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Hobart, is at 12 Murray St. Deluxe king guestrooms from $400 a night. The Marriott Luxury Collection is a portfolio of 120 hotels and resorts across more than 35 countries and territories.
Christine McCabe was a guest of The Tasman and Tourism Tasmania.
