Chef Luke Nguyen: essential tips on where to travel in India
The subcontinent is the latest passion for this well-travelled celebrity chef, author and documentary presenter
Australia’s best-known champion of Vietnamese cuisine debuts on our TV screens this month with Luke Nguyen’s India, a six-part SBS series on the small towns, hectic cities and sleepy backwaters of the southern states.
The Sydney-based chef and restaurateur was born in a refugee camp in Thailand in 1978 after his family fled war-torn Vietnam. By age 23, he’d opened his first restaurant, The Red Lantern in Sydney’s Surry Hills, with sister Pauline.
His spread of modern Vietnamese eateries now includes Vietnam House in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. He has also fronted food-centred travelogue series featuring Vietnam, Asian food trails, Britain and France.
But the subcontinent had always been on his bucket list and he was intrigued by the similarity of ingredients used in Indian cuisine with those grown across Southeast Asia.
“I couldn’t get there quickly enough,” he laughs. “But while I embarked on a culinary journey, it became a spiritual one for me as well. Local life is so vibrant. I was surrounded by friendly and passionate people who are so very proud of their traditions, arts, and culture.”
Be a prepared explorer
My advice relates to all destinations. But India is very large and can be daunting, so do your research on where you would like to travel and what you would like to see, but don’t over-plan things and ensure you build in time for wandering the streets, seeing how the locals eat, and embrace new experiences.
Adventures on the road, Indian style
I drove from the bustling city of Bangalore (Bengaluru), capital of the state of Karnataka, to the calm backwaters of Kerala on the southwest coast. During the 1000km trip, the vehicle broke down many times and the airconditioner stopped on the hottest days. It was the most colourful and eventful road trip I’ve ever taken, full of adventures, beautiful scenery and lots of laughs. I particularly enjoyed all the delicious chai tea and food stops along the way.
My perfect type of trip
Simply put, I travel where the food is. I love a destination where I can taste, smell and experience authentic cuisine, just how the locals do. By watching and learning how they cook, eat and drink, you learn so much more about their culture, history and traditions.
Favourite market in India
Originally known as the Grand Bazaar, the sprawling Goubert Market in the former French-held colony of Pondicherry (now Puducherry) on the southeast coast was established in 1826, and its surrounding preserved architecture is stunning.
When entering the bustling wet market, you are welcomed by friendly vendors selling bright flowers and the sweet scent of jasmine lingers in the air.
You then enter the seafood section, which definitely smells slightly different, but just as colourful with ladies dressed in an array of orange, blue, purple, green and pink saris.
They’re scaling, chopping, gutting, filleting and weighing large, freshly caught fish, singing their prices at you. I saw a gentleman stationed in a corner who was sharpening the vendors’ cleavers for the equivalent of 20 cents apiece. I sat with him for 45 minutes, just watching him work, absorbing the great energy. Since my visit, there’s been uproar about a proposed reconstruction of Goubert Market by the state government, which traders are vehemently opposing.
Best Indian dish
Every dish I tried in India was incredibly good, but I have to say my favourite dish was in Kochi, which is in Kerala on the west coast. I caught my own fish with the help of the local fishermen using the traditional Chinese fishing nets.
I took my catch to a local eatery around the corner, where they filleted the 1.5kg snapper and coated it with a vibrant masala paste combining garlic, ginger, red shallots, tomato, cashew, chilli and an array of southern Indian spices.
They then wrapped the fish in two layers of banana leaves, tied it up and placed it on a chargrill to slowly cook for 20 minutes. The dish is called meen pollichattu and opening it up, unfolding the banana leaves, and revealing the aromatic fish was wonderful. It felt like a delicious gift. The flavours were glowingly good, incredibly tasty.
Also on Luke Nguyen’s India, you’ll see me learning classic cookery techniques, such as using a tandoor oven, making mutton biryani in Bangalore and celebrating the special dishes of Diwali, the colourful festival of lights, which takes place over five days in autumn each year.
When I return to India
After reading Ayurveda: The Science of Self-Healing by Dr Vasant Lad, I want to delve deeper into Ayurveda practices on my next visit. Ayurveda is a natural system of medicine, originated in India more than 3000 years ago and translates into knowledge of life.
Through eating well, using herbal remedies, massage therapy, yoga and meditation, we gain a greater balance between body, mind, spirit and the environment. It’s especially popular in Kerala, with treatments widely available at spas.
Most memorable places to stay
When I’m filming, I prefer to stay at simple hotels, not resorts, as there’s too little time to enjoy the facilities. There has to be good security as we travel with more than $300,000 worth of camera gear and equipment. And a good breakfast selection is important to set the crew up for a day of filming.
Equally important is a great bar, for the end of day wind-down. When on holidays, my two favourites are both in Vietnam – Amanoi (pictured), a 75-minute drive from Nha Trang airport, and The Regent on Phu Quoc Island. Each has stunning guest villas, beautiful locations and impeccable service.
Pack it all in
I always take the most recommended books I can find about the places I’m going to. When I’m on a long flight or travelling between cities, it’s a great time to learn about the history of that particular country, read some travel narratives of various eras and if there are food stories in the book, then that’s a definite bonus.
On the Indian road trips, I read Never Mind the Bullocks by Vanessa Able and The God of Small Things by Arundhati Roy, which is set in Kerala. My go-to suitcase is a Rimowa Trunk as that style fits a lot of gear, is lightweight but durable and glides along smoothly. I think it also looks pretty sleek.
Luke Nguyen’s India is screening on SBS and SBS On Demand.
