Canopy by Hilton Osaka review: A welcoming stay in Umeda’s heart
The world’s largest aquarium, a 106m-high ferris wheel and a hotel with a seesaw in the lobby are just some of the family-friendly offerings in Japan’s third biggest city.
First impressions matter. Every decent hotelier knows this in their bones, which is why, upon arrival at Osaka’s newest prestigious hotel, Canopy by Hilton Osaka Umeda, it feels almost routine to be met with a cascade of greetings that begin at the elevator on the ground floor. And then again as the doors open 11 floors up, then once more as we approach the counter, an island of calm in a pleasantly sunny lobby, where two more hosts, then a third, extend their welcomes. Amid all this activity, though, one impression lands as a genuine surprise. There’s a wooden seesaw in the lobby.
This is the first sight that greets visitors as they step out of the elevator. Not a concierge, or a bar, or a view of the city. The symbolism is clear enough in its nod to whimsy and playfulness, but the big question is whether it’s real or just a decorative piece of modern art. The latter would have been a little cruel, come to think of it, so I’m happy to confirm that it’s very real and also quite fun. This discovery occurs during the check-in process, when my partner, Zoe, and our eight-year-old son, Raphael, excuse themselves to put the seesaw through its paces.
This is Hilton’s first Canopy hotel in Japan, and its debut in the Asia-Pacific region outside China. Canopy is branded as a “boutique” offering, one that avoids a cookie-cutter model in favour of something more individual and local. In practice, this means each hotel is designed to tap into its respective neighbourhood, drawing energy from surrounding communities. Here it’s Osaka, Japan’s third most populous city, or more specifically, Grand Green Osaka, a new urban redevelopment in the Umeda district, near Osaka Station.
The expansive green spaces and streetscapes, some still under construction during our recent stay, are arranged with elegant precision as an oasis of sorts within the broader Osaka sprawl, overlooking Umekita Park and far enough from the crush of the Dotonbori entertainment and dining district to feel like a series of small secrets waiting to be discovered. As it happens, some of the lights inside the hotel are shaped like takoyaki, the ball-shaped snacks filled with octopus that are found across Osaka, including the stalls around Dotonbori. Some artworks reference takoyaki too, and it’s safe to say these are touches not to be found in other Canopy locations.
The hotel connects to Osaka JR station through two large buildings filled with shops and restaurants in which it’s easy to spend an entire day. I know this from giddy experience. The south building, closest to the station, is the larger of the two, with an abundance of dining options that cater equally well for solo lunches and, in our case, family dinner a few hours later.
Grand Green Osaka’s expansive canopy, designed by SANAA (the architectural firm behind the new building at Sydney’s Art Gallery of NSW), offers shade for visitors during the day. Environmental features are built into the overall design, including microclimate controls installed around the park. There’s also a shallow pond, with sprinklers, for children to cool off in summer. The pond is temptation enough for Raphael, who makes a barefoot dash through the water. But if the hotel staff have an issue with the sight of a soaking child scurrying through reception and up to his parents’ guestroom, they don’t show it.
On the subject of accommodation, this is where the hotel truly reveals itself. There are 308 options all up, including 52 suites, one of which we’re happy to call home for three nights. Ours is a king Canopy corner suite, which features a spacious living room, separate sleeping area, plus kitchen and large bathroom where the toilet seat raises automatically on approach (yes, another welcome). The suite is a wonderfully commodious perch, especially suitable for hanging out with (or escaping from) a wriggly, energetic, occasionally wet child. As the category name suggests, the corner location is the highlight, with floor-to-ceiling windows offering panoramic views of Grand Green Osaka and beyond. As with the Mirror of Erised, which mesmerises Harry Potter in his first year at Hogwarts, I spend long periods of time gazing at the street below. This is the view from the gym, too, if any additional motivation is needed to use those cross-training machines. It’s a 24-hour facility and includes headphones for guests that can be taken away after each session.
Views continue downstairs in the lobby, where there’s a small gift shop, assorted pieces of sculpture and glassware, and a few shelves of old books that may have been chosen, judging from the selection, for aesthetic rather than literary value. Titles range from Molecular Theory of Gases and Liquids to Policing Prostitution in Nineteenth-Century Paris.
The room, like the hotel, like Grand Green Osaka more broadly, incorporates sustainability into the experience. So while each guestroom features a Fukusuke doll, a traditional harbinger of fortune, plus kimono-style bathrobes (adult and child sizes), there’s also all the technologies you’d expect in a new hotel, plus quality amenities made from sustainable materials. Downstairs, one shop encourages people to bring their own bags, which is still a rare sight in Japan, where single pieces of fruit can often be wrapped in several layers of packaging upon purchase. Appropriately enough, two nearby retailers specialise in plants and flowers.
There’s a cafe and a restaurant on street level, among the many dining options in the vicinity. But for guests, it’s hard to go past the bar on the 11th floor. Perhaps it’s best to look past the slightly eccentric name and punctuation of !JaJa! Bar and focus on the view across Osaka and the enticing outdoor terrace.
Every morning, we arrive at the adjacent dining area, CC: Carbon Copy, for a buffet breakfast that consistently exceeds expectations, from the onsen eggs and bakery spread, to the range of locally inspired dishes. And did I mention the pinball machines? There are two here that double as tables. In the first, the balls careen between Osaka hotspots, and in the second between the attractions of the Kansai region. It’s safe to say Raphael is a fan, having come to a certain realisation that none of us could have anticipated a few days earlier. What’s the only thing better than a pinball machine at breakfast? Two, of course.
Five family-friendly things to do in Osaka
1. Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan
Described as the world’s largest aquarium, there are 15 big tanks, the highlight being a 9m, 5400-tonne tank that contains many wonderful species, including several enormous whale sharks. There’s also a mesmerising Sea at Night session daily from 5pm.
2. HEP Five ferris wheel
A shopping complex in Umeda with a ferris wheel on the roof, 106m above street level with views out to Akashi Strait. What’s not to love?
3. The Wizarding World of Harry Potter
If the thought of several days at Universal Studios is a bit much, pick just one attraction. Harry Potter World’s most impressive feature may well be the wands that, when waved correctly, raise flames and open doors, among other magical feats.
4. Dotonbori
Neon signs, game centres, restaurants, bars, street food and a crush of people at all hours. A cacophony of imagery abounds on these busy streets; around the corner from the Glico Running Man billboard, the area’s best-known symbol, a video screen projects your image on the side of the building opposite.
5. Grand Green Osaka
An oasis of calm near Osaka JR station, it features a water park and the Umeda Sky Building, with Kuchu Teien Observatory on the 39th, 40th and rooftop levels.
In the know
Canopy by Hilton Osaka Umeda is near Osaka Station in the Umeda district.
Hilton Honors members who book direct through preferred Hilton channels earn an additional 2000 bonus points per stay at
the hotel through to March 5, 2025.
Rooms from about $445 a night, including service charge and taxes.
Ashleigh Wilson was a guest of Canopy by Hilton Osaka Umeda.
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