Travellers describe Kimberley with one word: awesome
Whether travelling by land, sea, or air, get ready to be awestruck in the Kimberley, a region of astounding natural phenomena on land and in the ocean.
Ask anyone who’s been to the Kimberley how they liked their trip, and you may get a misty-eyed response as they grapple for words to encompass the rusty pindan landscape, the milky aqua sea, and the connection to ancient, living cultures. They’ll use words like ‘adventure’, ‘wilderness’, ‘rugged’, and if you ask them what they felt, the answer will include ‘awe’. There are many ways to visit the Kimberley, and each will inspire wonder.
The Kimberley Coast is among the last true wilderness areas, and most of its attractions can only be accessed by sea. As your expedition ship slices through these remote and sometimes uncharted waters, each day reveals natural and cultural phenomenon that in isolation would be incredible, and when piled up, day after day, make for a truly world-class adventure.
While cruise itineraries vary, there are some unmissable highlights that most will include. Take the Horizontal Waterfalls, two gaps in the McLarty Range, where the 11m tides squeeze through, creating a raging white-water torrent of seawater.
Here, some cruise companies transfer guests to the commercial tour operator to join their fast boat. Depending on the tides that day, an adrenaline-activating zoom through the gaps may be possible, but equally fascinating is the nature tour here, inspecting the buckled geology and fascinating birdlife of Talbot Bay.
Another mesmerising tidal phenomenon is Montgomery Reef. Here, the living coral structure seems to rise from the ocean as the tide drops, the reef eventually standing metres above the surface, as water cascades out.
In small expedition vessels, you’ll explore the deeper channels snaking through the reef, surprising turtles and spying on crocodiles and birds that gobble up stranded fish.
The Kimberley is famous for waterfalls, whether thundering after a robust wet season, or trickling with elegant mist at the end of the dry season. Journey through a gorge up the bizarrely straight Prince Regent River to the King Cascades, or marvel at the height of the twin-streamed King George Falls.
Optional hikes immerse travellers in Indigenous culture. Some cruise companies have arrangements to meet local traditional owners, who provide a Welcome to Country, and interpretative guiding. Feel the spirituality of the country as you stare at ancient Wanjina paintings, and the even older Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) art.
Most cruises are a one-way expedition, from Broome to Wyndham (to access flights from Kununurra) or Darwin (or reverse), while some shorter cruises may offer half the journey and return to the original port. The crew usually features one or more on-board naturalists who bring the natural wonders to life.
Numerous cruise companies ply these waters in the dry season (late March to October). Cruising here is never a budget exercise, but there are various ships to choose from. Ponant operates two ships, with up to 184 and 264 passengers, while in the mid-range APT and Coral Expeditions accommodate 70 to 120 passengers.
Smaller ships, while often more expensive, can navigate their main vessel up rivers and under the waterfalls, and some offer fishing experiences.
If a smaller vessel with its own helicopter is on your wish list, check out True North (36 passengers) and True North II (22 passengers), Kimberley Quest (18 passengers) or the Great Escape Charter Company (14 passengers).
Overland adventures
Experiencing the Kimberley by road is no less spectacular, and offers an entirely different, albeit dustier, adventure. One of the highlights is Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek), where you’ll don a head torch and slosh through knee-deep cave water to emerge in tropical sunlight at the far end. Close your eyes to feel the spirit of Bunuba warrior Jandamarra, who fought for his country and people through this labyrinth of caves.
Heading east, you’ll need a four-wheel drive (or a flying tour from Kununurra) to enter Purnululu National Park. Here, the beehive-striped domes of the Bungle Bungle Range, one of the otherworldly icons of the Kimberley, rear from the orange plains fringing the Tanami Desert. Stroll through this alien landscape to the cavern of Cathedral Gorge, where whispered voices echo eerily. At the other end of the park, and no less incredible, is Echidna Chasm where the 180m-high walls narrow to just over a metre across, and glow orange in the midday sun.
Just west of Kununurra you’ll find one of Australia’s greatest four-wheel drive experiences, the Gibb River Road, which traverses 660km of ancient geology, bulbous boab trees and sometimes relentless corrugations, all the way to Derby.
One essential stop on “the Gibb” is El Questro Wilderness Park, a former cattle station-turned eco-tourism venture with some of the most astounding scenery of the Kimberley. Don’t miss floating under the droplet waterfall at Emma Gorge, and soaking in the thermal oasis of Zebedee Springs. Various accommodation offerings are scattered across the property, from glamping at Emma Gorge to camping at the Station, which offers tours and food options.
Heading west, more spectacular gorges await, with short or long hikes offered. Wash the dust off at natural swimming holes like Manning, Galvan’s and Bell Gorge.
A detour north to Mitchell Falls (Punamii Uunpuu) on Wunambal Gaambera country is a spectacular add-on. On the way, camp at lovely Munurru (King Edward River) campground, and don’t miss the fascinating tour of the Wanjina and Gwion Gwion art sites with traditional owners.
From the Mitchell Falls campsite, it’s a scenic 4.5km hike to the mighty Mitchell Falls, passing Indigenous art hidden under a waterfall for millennia. For a rock-star view of the four-tiered falls, take a one-way helicopter back to camp.
Get a taste of station life at Drysdale River, Mount Elizabeth, or the Indigenous-owned and run Home Valley Station. Or just stop by Ellenbrae Station, where the pastoralists run a significant sideline serving mango smoothies and home-baked scones to travellers in their grassy backyard.
Kimberley distances are vast, and one of the easiest ways to cover the kilometres is on a four-wheel drive tour, where you only need to show up. APT offers comfortable options using hotels, station stays and ensuite glamping tents in its own wilderness camps.
For something a little more bespoke with a local Indigenous guide, try Kingfisher Tours for 4WD or fly-in tours.
If you see yourself behind the wheel, a four-wheel-drive is recommended. Save time on driving to the Kimberley by flying into Broome or Darwin and hiring a vehicle, fully equipped with rooftop tents and camping gear. Recommended hire companies include Red Sands Campers and Broome and Beyond Camper Hire.
For a shorter, two-wheel drive adventure, fly into Broome and drive the recently sealed road to the Dampier Peninsula, some 200km north. Stay at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm for pearling and wild nature experiences, and join enthralling Indigenous experiences, like Oolin Sunday Island Tours, Borrgoron Coast to Creek Tours and Southern Cross Cultural Tours at Lullumb.
Luxurious shortcuts
If you’re thinking about a luxury stay in boutique surrounds, try the unique Kimberley lodges, dotted in exclusive wilderness locations and accessible only by air from Broome, Kununurra or Darwin. Kimberley Coastal Camp has eight ocean-view bungalows beside Admiralty Gulf, each with quirky outdoor ensuites. Try fishing for a barramundi, take a chef-led cooking class, and meet guests beside the campfire.
Berkeley River Lodge perches atop a sand dune overlooking the Timor Sea with 20 villas featuring floor-to-ceiling glass and outdoor baths. Cruise the Berkeley River, swimming and hiking through secret gorges, take a sunset four- wheel-drive safari or join a helicopter tour to rock art galleries.
At Faraway Bay, a boutique retreat with eight cabins, chef-prepared meals are served at a communal long table overlooking a spring-fed swimming pool. Boat tours deliver guests to the spectacular King George Falls, spotting turtles and manta rays on the way, and visiting remote Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) Indigenous rock art.
Perhaps the most accessible luxury lodge, El Questro Homestead is just 90 minutes’ drive from Kununurra. This exclusive retreat for 20 guests cantilevers from the cliff over the Chamberlain River. Homestead guests enjoy guided gorge walks, cruising the river, four-wheel-drive safaris, and add-on heli-hikes.
