Cosmetics should label skin care that is ‘not recommended for children’

Dermatologists are warning that tween customers are buying skin care that could damage their skin as health authorities the industry over the rules.

The beauty industry – fuelled by social media – is accused of pushing unsuitable products on to tweens and teens like Abbey Harcourt, 12. Picture: Nick Cubbin

Health authorities have warned the $200bn beauty industry over selling products “not recommended for children” amid a boom in tween customers buying sophisticated skin care that dermatologists warn could damage their skin.

In a statement that may cause upheaval in the cosmetic market, the Therapeutic Goods Administration has told The Weekend Australian that manufacturers of retinol-based skin care – vitamin A for topical use – must direct whether such products are suitable “for children”.

It comes as the beauty industry – fuelled by social media – is accused of pushing unsuitable products on to tweens and teens.

Dermatologists in Australia, Britain and the US say young people should not be using anti-ageing products containing retinol, alpha and beta hydroxy acids, or vitamin C, designed for older people or for sun-damaged skin; they report seeing increased cases of irritation, allergic reactions and dermatitis.

Tiffany Masterton, the founder of the Drunk Elephant brand, warned tweens and teens in a post on Instagram late last year to “stay away from our more potent products”.

Other popular brands in the segment including The Ordinary and Kiehls, have also posted warnings on their social media channels advising tweens against using certain products, but no products sighted by this publication carry a label warning consumers whether they were suitable or not for young skin.

Drunk Elephant Polypeptide Cream is popular among tweens

A spokesman for the TGA said: “The Poisons Standard does not specify age limits on the use of vitamin A for topical use. However, manufacturers should ensure that cosmetic product formulations are safe and contain appropriate directions for use, including whether the product is not recommended for use by children.”

The TGA acknowledged it was not able to enforce the directive as it does not regulate products with a retinol concentration of 1 per cent or less (the standard concentration for most over-the-counter beauty products).

The Australian Competition & Consumer Commission has responsibility for the safety of cosmetic products. Asked about the sale of retinol and other products to children, the consumer regulator noted the mandatory requirements for cosmetics ingredients labelling. These rules aim to “reduce the risk of consumers unintentionally exposing themselves to ingredients causing allergic reactions”.

Dermatologist Katherine Armour. Picture: Facebook

Dermatologist Katherine Armour from Bespoke Skin Technology said: “I’m starting to see tweens and teens with red, angry skin solely due to the use of skincare which their skin just doesn’t need.”

Dr Armour said active products can cause “significant irritation” and “trigger skin conditions such as periorificial dermatitis. Healthy pre-teen skin is still quite sensitive.”

At stake is a retail pot estimated to be worth $260m by 2027, driven by a generation of girls who never knew a world without Instagram, TikTok and YouTube.

According to NielsenIQ, health and beauty products account for 85 per cent of sales on TikTok’s US retail platform.

Jo Horgan, co-founder of the Australian beauty giant Mecca, said the surge in Generation Alpha customers had “morphed relatively quickly”.

“As we have seen this trend emerge, we’ve upped the ante and done much more specific education with our team members,” she said. “We have really educated the team on how to engage with tweens and young teenagers ... and they’re very clear on what products are and are not appropriate for tweens.”

Ingredients in cosmetic products are regulated as industrial chemicals and are administered by the Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme.