Great skin that starts with doing... almost nothing
When it comes to a glowing complexion, less really is more. There’s a lot to be said for paring back your products, keeping the regimen simple and even losing a step or two.
There are few online rabbit holes capable of chewing through a beauty editor’s time quite like that of a Reddit skincare forum. Specifically, the Skincare Addiction thread: a 1.2 million-strong community of flawless-skin devotees who trade product suggestions and ‘shelfies’, and wax lyrical about their multi-step regimens.
Somewhere between studying the phenomenon of retinol purging and how to combat ‘maskne’, a thread titled ‘the best routine for my skin is doing nothing’ stood out not for its shopping list of brand recommendations, but its steadfast message that simplifying our skincare routine may, in fact, deliver a better complexion. While the internet (and our inner minimalist) might support the idea that a glowing complexion can be achieved by deserting our beauty cabinet altogether, experts believe there’s more merit in occasionally downscaling our regimens.
The premise? Overloading the face with complicated product acrobatics – or ingredients that simply don’t gel – can counteract their efficacy, or worse, lead to irritation. Beauty aficionados have given the practice catchy monikers borrowed from the wellness world (fancy a ‘skin detox’ or ‘face fast’?) but they all imply the same thing: stripping back our skincare to a few key results-driven products may be one of the most helpful things we can do for our skin from time to time.
To understand why our skin responds favourably to simplicity, it pays to understand its barrier function. “The skin is a very sophisticated organ that protects us from the external environment with a watertight cellular layer known as the skin barrier,” explains Melbourne-based dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald.
This metaphoric coat of armour and the vital processes it is responsible for can be either supercharged or sabotaged by the elixirs we apply daily. “The skin is very good at doing what it is meant to do in terms of balancing its own pH and bacterial diversity,” says LeeAnne Leslie, clinical training and education manager at Alpha-H. “Over-exfoliating or overusing products that strip the skin’s naturally occurring lipids can cause compromised skin barrier protection.”
But herein lies the dilemma. While a new skincare product can deliver immediate benefits, results might taper off after a few months. That doesn’t mean, however, that our trusty arsenal of masks, serums and moisturisers is no longer working, nor that we should neglect those products once we stop seeing results.
“Our skin doesn’t stop responding simply because it becomes used to a certain ingredient,” explains Leslie. “This theory comes from the fact that certain results are immediate and some are progressive, leading to the thought that the product may have stopped working.”
Skin experts unanimously agree that consistency is key. “Your skin has a renewal cycle of 28 days, which is why it usually takes about one to three months to see significant results,” explains David Khoo, Olay’s principal scientist.
However, occasionally our skin will flare up on the formulas we’ve used on repeat. “As skin is a living organ and can change along with our lifestyle and environment, it’s always a good idea to review your skincare regularly to ensure you’re meeting its particular needs at that time,” says Leslie, citing seasonal weather changes and fluctuating hormones among the reasons our visage may enjoy an ingredients switch-up.
Sidelining our skincare entirely is not as helpful as knowing which ingredients are incompatible. Niacinamide – an ingredient found in many serums which improve the skin’s barrier function – is less effective when mixed with vitamin C or alpha-hydroxy acids (like glycolic). Ditto, retinol and benzoyl peroxide.
Another inconvenient truth? Your skin may occasionally get worse before it gets better. Anti-ageing powerhouse vitamin A, while effective, is notoriously bothersome: “Retinols are universally irritating at effective concentrations, but excellent for repair,” says McDonald, adding that they can be layered with soothing ingredients like hyaluronic acid to ease side effects like redness and flaking.
The ‘when’ of application is equally important. Retinol increases sun sensitivity and should only be applied in the evening, while the brightening and antioxidant effect of vitamin C-infused elixirs are best incorporated into a morning routine.
The idea that our face could benefit from a skincare hiatus isn’t without merit. The wrong combination of active ingredients or introducing actives without ample adjustment time can lead to irritation, which recovers once we strip back skincare to bare essentials. New products (particularly those spiked with actives) should be introduced gradually over two or three months before welcoming a follow-up formula.
This not only avoids pesky side effects, it also uncovers the MVPs from those merely sweeping the surface: “It is best to start with a fairly basic skincare routine, with just the most important anti-ageing ingredients,” says McDonald. “Then increase the strength or number of ingredients in products as our skin becomes more resilient and robust to see even better results. It’s that simple.”
This story appears in Vogue’s December issue, on stands Monday December 14.