Rock climbers angry over Parks Victoria’s delays revealing sites of permanent cultural heritage bans

Many years after Parks Victoria imposed the first cultural heritage bans at Mt Arapiles, rock climbers still don’t know what permanent restrictions will apply.

Free climber Tom Perkins tackles the grade 21 Feeling the Ceiling near the summit of Mount Arapiles in Victoria. Picture: Jason Edwards

Nearly five years since the first “temporary” access bans in rock climbing’s Australian nursery, Parks Victoria can’t say how it will permanently shut down routes ­because of cultural heritage ­concerns.

The Victorian government said it was still working on amending the Mt Arapiles-Tooan State Park management plan and would not say when climbers would learn how much of the world-famous rock would face permanent bans.

The Barengi Gadjin Land Council said on Friday it expected determinations to be made public “very soon” but were working through “a couple of things” before an announcement. A BGLC spokeswoman directed questions to Parks Victoria, which said that work on the management plan was still under way.

“Fulfilling our legislative requirements, we are amending the current management plan to protect cultural and environmental heritage at Dyurrite, Mount ­Arapiles – Tooan State Park, in partnership with traditional owners and the wider community,’’ a Parks Victoria spokeswoman said.

“Work on the management plan amendment is occurring.’’

At the time of the closures in late 2019, climbers estimated more than 300 unique climbs were banned and lamented that walking was restricted at the base of large parts of climbing areas. Areas to close included Declaration Crag, a beginner’s rock normally used by thousands of schoolchildren each year, and Tiger Wall, one of the most used sites.

Cultural heritage surveys at Mt Arapiles were conducted long ago and are expected to show areas where rock quarrying was used and some cases of rock art, although much of the art in the ­region is invisible to the naked eye.

Climbers have consistently stated that cultural heritage should be protected but questioned why there is a lack of ­transparency around the process and why the rules are not applied more broadly. For example, there is cultural heritage in the park area near the Melbourne Cricket Ground that could be subject to cultural heritage laws.

Australian Climbing Association Victoria secretary Mike Tomkins said rock climbers had been disrespected.

“It seems to me they’ve started a process that they can’t finish,’’ he said of the Arapiles bans. “Nobody dares to ask for fear of offending anybody. It’s quite ­obviously a power and ownership issue.’’

Natimuk Hotel owner Bill Lovel said the process had been characterised by silence.

“You can’t get to speak to anyone,’’ Mr Lovel said.

The hotel is a short drive to the state park and provides food and accommodation to visitors, but numbers crashed during the pandemic. There are still climbers at Arapiles who are able to climb on other key parts of the rock.

The closures at Arapiles came after the Victorian government slashed access to nearby Grampians National Park, which is not connected to Arapiles but has an equally strong climbing ­culture.

Many more routes were closed at the Grampians.

The bans have split climbers into two groups: those who advocate strong opposition and others who are adopting a conciliatory strategy of engaging with traditional owners.

The bans have gutted a once thriving global industry in the Grampians and have had a serious impact at Arapiles.

When the first interim protection order was imposed at Arapiles, the Victorian government threatened fines of up to $300,000 for people who disturb any cultural heritage site.