Coronavirus: Pilgrim charts progress of stressed-out surfers

Joel Pilgrim from the Waves of Wellness Foundation says surfing can help with mental illness, especially in times of crisis.

Not waving, streaming: Joel Pilgrim, founder of Sydney-based mental health foundation Waves of Wellness, offers online help while beaches are closed. Picture: Jane Dempster

One month into the COVID-19 restrictions, there is no football, no ­cinema and no gym — but for many people in Sydney, the most dis­concerting thing is not being able to go to the beach.

Eighty per cent of Australians live on the coast. Swimming, surfing, sailing, fishing, even just sticking your finger into a sea anemone — that’s what we do, it’s who we are, and we’re not allowed to do it.

A rumour went around last ­Friday that today — Monday — might be the day for a “soft” or ­unofficial reopening, but nothing formal was announced.

Meanwhile, all eyes are on the US state of Florida — arguably similar to Australia in its ocean-frontage and lifestyle — which reopened beaches on the weekend, after a month-long closure.

Crowds cheered when police moved barriers.

Republican Governor Ron DeSantis said people “need fresh air”. You can now go biking, fishing, running, swimming and surfing and you can walk your pet.

Sunbathing is still banned, as is “lingering on the beach without moving”. They don’t want people having big barbecues, picnics or family gatherings either.

Most of Sydney’s beaches ­remain closed for who knows how long. In Victoria, you can have a quick dip in the ocean. Surfing is technically OK in most states — it’s a solitary outdoor pursuit — but you have to find a place where you can legally cross the sand.

Sydneysiders have only themselves to blame, of course. It was the COVID-infected crowds at Bondi that forced the closure of the beaches last month. But chastened beachgoers are now seeking relief.

Joel Pilgrim, 31, is chief executive of the Waves of Wellness Foundation. He says beaches provide unique opportunities for ­people to manage their mental health and ward off depression, ­especially during times of crisis.

“I’ve had my challenges with mental ill health. There were times when I felt very alone, like nobody would understand,” he said.

“But I also grew up in Newcastle, so I’ve always had surfing to fall back on. We would spend all day at the beach as kids. It was what you did — grab a board and play all day, until the sun went down.

“I find it very challenging not being able to go in. I don’t have much else I do. It’s my sport, it’s my relaxation, my spirituality — it’s lots of different things to me.”

Mr Pilgrim’s foundation encourages participants to immerse themselves in the ocean to find a sense of peace.

“We are not just for surfers. We are actually learn-to-surf. We put lots of people through the programs, the youngest being 12 years old, and the oldest 63.

“It might be veterans with PTSD. It might be children showing at-risk behaviours. We can’t operate on the sand at the ­moment, so we’re are doing what I call mental health by stealth.”

That includes “couch surfing” sessions with people joining in from home on Zoom (the next one is on May 2.)

“People get pretty creative,” he said. “Some were running out to their pools. We had people splashing themselves in the face. It’s fun, but there is a virtual mental health program that is serious too.”

Mr Pilgrim urges participants to “stay physical” and exercise.

“It can be challenging. So talk to your friends. Say, ‘How are you travelling?’ And be ready for them to say, ‘Not so great, things are a bit tough at the moment.’ Because for a lot of people, they are.”