Wine: Thistledown

There’s a great deal more to Thistledown, owned by two Masters of Wine, than meets the eye.

TWAM-20170520 EMBARGO FOR TWAM 20 May 2017 NO REUSE WITHOUT PERMISSION 2016 Thistledown Wines Cunning Plan Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2016 Thistledown Vagabond Old Vine Blewitt Springs McLaren Vale Grenache 2016 Thistledown Wines Thorny Devil Barossa Valley Grenache

At face value, a production of 3000 dozen bottles a year puts Thistledown into the grey area between a small and medium-sized business, neither one nor the other. But there’s a great deal more to Thistledown than meets the eye.

It’s owned by two Masters of Wine, Giles Cooke and Fergal Tynan, and is based in Scotland. Its genesis dates back to 1998 when they met over a beer on the evening before the start of the MW first-year course. Cooke went on to become a rarity in the hallowed halls of the institute that runs the course by passing it at his first attempt.

The global nature of the wine world means international travel is a cornerstone of the career of most MWs, Cooke and Tynan no exceptions. Cooke made wine in Spain, California and Australia, while also providing advice on wine styles and packaging; Tynan’s turf was Europe, South America and Australia. A substantial part of their broader business is the importation and distribution of wines from those countries.

They say it was inevitable they would form a joint business in Australia because of their love of the place. In 2006 they set up Alliance Wine Australia, which sources wines for distribution in the UK on an ad hoc basis, taking the process one step further with Thistledown, which makes branded wines each year. The Revenir winery in the Adelaide Hills, with Peter Leske in charge, is the perfect place for that. Cooke spends three months a year in Australia, meeting growers in the Clare Valley, Barossa Valley, Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek, and working with Leske during vintage. He speaks my language when he says, “McLaren Vale grenache is world-class, and best expresses itself when made in the mould of pinot noir”. The wines are sold online in Australia, and exported to the UK (and smaller amounts to the US and New Zealand).

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2016 Thistledown Wines Cunning Plan Langhorne Creek Shiraz The colour promises abundant black fruits, whole berry fermentation underlining that promise. It has the succulence of Langhorne Creek, but with a raft of flowery/spicy notes. Mocha oak adds another dimension, cuddling up to the plump tannins. Hedonistic? You bet. 14% alc, screwcap 94 points, drink to 2030, $25 2016 Thistledown Vagabond Old Vine Blewitt Springs McLaren Vale Grenache This has more power, depth and drive than its Barossa Valley counterpart, which suggests higher alcohol (though this isn't the case). It certainly needs more time, and will repay the patient in spades. 14.5% alc, screwcap 94 points, drink to 2031, $50 2016 Thistledown Wines Thorny Devil Barossa Valley Grenache The inclusion of 9% grenache from McLaren Vale has worked well, for there’s more structure and spine than many Barossa Valley grenaches at this price. The red fruits that are the heart and soul of this wine are delicious. 14.5% alc, screwcap 94 points, drink to 2026, $30