Wine: the Redman family

Bill Redman declared: “From 1890 to 1945 you can write failure across Coonawarra.”

Bill Redman, the first of the family to make wine, declared: “From 1890 to 1945 you can write failure across Coonawarra.” No one was better qualified to make that declaration: he was the only person in the district to make red wine throughout that period.

John Riddoch founded the Penola Fruit Growing Colony in 1890, built what we now know as Wynns Coonawarra Estate, and subdivided 790ha of adjacent land into 8ha “working men’s lots” requiring that each “blocker”, as they became known, planted two-thirds shiraz and one-third cabernet. Bill Redman worked at the Riddoch winery for six years, becoming head cellarman in 1907, aged 19. A glut of grapes and of wine was looming, the venture in deep trouble from Riddoch’s untimely death in July 1901, and the executor of his estate was desperate to raise money. He offered the Redman family a 16ha twin block in 1908 on terms they couldn’t refuse.

Redman journeyed to Adelaide, persuaded Tolley, Scott & Tolley to buy the wine he intended to make, Douglas Tolley to supply the barrels, the other pieces of equipment scrounged from here and there. Hence the 1909 Hope Valley Burgundy, which I drank on January 31, 1980.

Wine continued to accumulate, distillation into brandy the last resort. Between 1918 and 1946 the “big winery” produced brandy for its owner, Adelaide distillers Milne & Co. By the 1920s, the Redman family was making and selling all its wines to Adelaide distributors Woodleys, those from ’49 onwards being the famous Woodley Treasure Chest series. Key events were: 1937, son Owen joins the business; 1952, the first Rouge Homme bottled wines; 1965, Lindemans buys Rouge Homme; 1966, Redman founded by Owen; 1981, his sons Bruce and Malcolm join; Bruce’s sons Daniel (2009) and Michael (2015) become the fourth-generation custodians.

2014 REDMAN THE LAST ROW LIMITED RELEASE COONAWARRA SHIRAZ

From a single block of 80yo vines planted in the 1930s. Wild yeast open fermented, 13 days on skins, 18 months in French oak (66% new). Has old vine structure and depth of blackberry/black cherry/plum fruit to last for decades, underwritten by fine tannins. 14% alc; screwcap

95 points; drink to 2039; $30

2014 REDMAN COONAWARRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON

A pure, slightly austere cabernet, with one foot in the past, one in the future. The present is reflected by the low-yield consequence of poor flowering. The result: an intense wine made from small berries and elevated tannins which, if nothing else, mean a long life. 13.4% alc; cork

94 points; drink to 2034; $33

2012 REDMAN COONAWARRA SHIRAZ

From an exceptionally good vintage. Matured for 12 months in American and French hogsheads. Bright colour, then a bouquet filled with black cherry/blackberry fruit, oak also in the picture. A rich and long palate with great balance between the fruit, oak and tannins. Exceptional bargain via redman.com.au.

14.1% alc; cork 95 points; drink to 2037; $19