Wine: tempranillo stands tall among alternative grapes

Restrictions apply to what European winemakers can print on their labels. The Aussie industry is not so precious.

The Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée systems of Europe work on the principle that if a grape variety is not specifically approved for growing in a given region, the wine made from it cannot mention the variety; it is only allowed to state “product of France” (or Italy, etc) and, in some appellations, cannot specify the vintage. When winemakers from those countries are asked where they would go if they were to start again, they all answer Australia (or any other New World country). Why? Because of the freedom we have to grow and make whatever wines we choose and, being Australian, we are prepared to have a go.

We call them “alternative” varieties and one stands tallest: tempranillo, with more than 740ha planted. Spain is its kingdom, with 200,000ha in the last census (2008). It is grown across the country under a host of regional names and in climates warm and cool. Given it is an early ripening variety, the cooler, higher regions of Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa should come as no surprise.

Nor should its geographical spread across Australia. My tasting notes made over the past two years come from regions as warm as the Hunter Valley and Swan Valley, to the cool of the Yarra Valley, Frankland River and the Southern Highlands of NSW. Whether grown in Europe or Australia, the accent is on fruit, cherry a foremost descriptor. What it often lacks is structure, notwithstanding its thick skins. In Spain, in particular Rioja, American oak has been used for prolonged maturation to fill the gap. Further north, the Bordeaux varieties have been blended for the same purpose.

Only a few makers in Australia have opted for blends, possibly due to lower yields, and there is a repeated pattern of flavours — red cherry, black cherry and/or plum — and an appealing supple mouthfeel, new oak seldom needed (or wasted). Wine made in the vineyard in the lucky country? Certainly looks like it.

2015 JUNIPER ESTATE SMALL BATCH MARGARET RIVER TEMPRANILLO

Bright crimson-purple; crafted with care. The evocative bouquet has cherry blossom fragrance, the supple, slinky medium-bodied palate with juicy black cherry fruits crosscut by fine-grained but persistent, savoury tannins. Elegance personified. 13.5% alc, screw cap

95 points, drink to 2028, $24.90

2015 DOGROCK GRAMPIANS TEMPRANILLO

Single vineyard; the grapes wild-fermented, basket-pressed, 14% graciano added, matured in French oak for 15 months. The bouquet is highly fragrant yet coherent, with red cherry fruit, spice and integrated oak a precise overture for the fresh, medium-bodied palate with a sprinkle of spice to conclude. Ready to drink. 13.5% alc, screw cap

93 points, drink to 2023, $25

2015 PEPPER TREE WINES LIMITED RELEASE WRATTONBULLY TEMPRANILLO

Marches to the tune of the tempranillo drum in cooler climates in Australia. It is bracingly fresh and crisp, medium-bodied with a cross-current of dark cherry fruit, spices and gently savoury tannins. Admirable length and balance. 14% alc, screw cap

95 points, drink to 2025, $25