Wine: riesling

Riesling is the white wine that winemakers drink on Earth and in heaven.

Riesling is the white wine that winemakers drink on Earth and in heaven. Writer Jancis Robinson has long held to the view, saying: “It could claim to be the finest white grape variety in the world on the basis of the longevity of its wines and their ability to transmit the characteristics of a vineyard without losing its [identity].”

While riesling delivers the greatest value for money of any table wine, red or white, and goes with a vast range of cuisines, Australian plantings have shrunk from 4516ha in 2009 to 3854ha in 2012 and 3114ha in 2015. But wait. In 2015 its weighted average price per tonne was second only to that of pinot noir, grenache pushing it into third place in 2016. Professor Kym Anderson AC says he’s not sure how much this is due to greater demand or diminished supply. Nor for that matter was renowned riesling maker Jeffrey Grosset, when I asked him.

The grape prices paid in 2016 for the 13 regions most responsible for production throw up further facts wrapped in questions. Tasmanian riesling is by far the most expensive, with 93 per cent at an average price of $2862 per tonne. Next is Canberra District, ranging between $1650 and $2749 per tonne. The Barossa Valley tops out at $900 per tonne, and the Clare Valley has prices spread between $600 and $2479. The Eden Valley’s tipping point is $1400 to $1500 for 35 per cent of all sales. Finally, there is the up and coming Great Southern region with 43 per cent sold between $1400 and $1600 per tonne.

One of this week’s rieslings comes from the Henty region in southwest Victoria — too small for capture in the big picture, but with two great producers, Crawford River and Seppelt. Its climate is the coldest in Australia, Tasmania included, according to the renowned viticultural scientist Dr John Gladstones.

This week’s reviewed wines.

2016 Castle Rock Estate A & W Reserve Porongurup Riesling. From WA’s Great Southern region, this is a wine of crystal clarity in every way, marrying elegance with power as it unfolds. Lime and slatey acidity are intertwined on the exceptionally long and pure palate. Few ’16 rieslings could point to the future as convincingly. 11.5% alc, screwcap, 97 points, drink to 2036, $35

2016 Seppelt Drumborg Vineyard Riesling. This has it all, bringing finesse and luxuriant varietal character onto the table at the first sniff and taste. It is literally loaded with power in the fashion of a fine, dry Rheingau riesling. It is utterly irresistible now, and will become even more so with extended cellaring. 11% alc, screwcap, 97 points, drink to 2036, $40

2016 Stargazer Coal River Valley Riesling. This wine from a small producer in southern Tasmania is fermented in stainless steel, old oak and a ceramic egg. The complex vinification has worked perfectly — it has intense lime juice and lime zest flavours, but even more striking is the opulent juiciness of the mouthfeel before the cleansing acidity on the finish. 12% alc, screwcap, 97 points, drink to 2031, $35