Wine: Kellermeister

Kellermeister was established in 1976 by Ralph and Val Jones without any fanfare or trumpets, let alone Barossa bassoons.

Kellermeister was established in 1976 by Ralph and Val Jones without any fanfare or trumpets, let alone Barossa bassoons. Ralph’s German mother died when he was young, but he knew her family name was Keller (anglicised in the lead-up to World War II), so he named the business in her honour.

2015 Kellermeister Black Sash Barossa Valley Shiraz, 2015 Kellermeister The Meister Eden Valley Shiraz, 2014 Kellermeister Barossa Shiraz

Given that 1977-78 saw the threatened red grape glut materialise in dramatic fashion, you might think their timing was bad. Thousands of tonnes of grapes were left on the vine, others diverted to the now infamous shiraz muffins. In 1981 the oversupply led to the first removal of vines and it went from bad to worse as old shiraz and mataro vines were grafted to chardonnay. In 1983, shiraz and riesling were made into sweet sherry, and in 1986 the South Australian government introduced the Vine Pull Scheme.

There was, however, some good blown by this ill wind: the Joneses were able to buy the then 100-year-old shiraz vineyard near Lyndoch, now known as the Black Sash Vineyard.

In 2009, winemaker Mark Pearce left Wirra Wirra and joined Kellermeister. Three years later the Joneses decided to retire, and the Pearce family (Mark, his wife Susanna and their three children) bought the winery and vineyards, today living on the home vineyard, Threefold Farm.

I have always enjoyed the Kellermeister wines. They have a savoury edge to the black fruits that may be linked to the alcohol of the wines ranging between 14% and 14.5%, French oak another factor. The 2014 Firstborn Single Vineyard Threefold Farm ($45, 96 points) is one example of the distinctive style, which spills over into the 2013 Ancestor Stonegarden Eden Valley Grenache ($175, 97 points). The vineyard was planted circa 1868, the alcohol only 14%, with a texture and structure not far short of old vine shiraz, the flavours strictly red fruit grenache.

2015 Kellermeister Black Sash Barossa Valley Shiraz. Striking crimson-purple, it takes the meaning of full-bodied shiraz to the extreme, its black fruits on the edge of bitterness but not tripping the wire. The French oak is evident, but I have no fears for the wine’s future. 14.5% alc, screwcap; 97 points, drink to 2045, $65

2015 Kellermeister The Meister Eden Valley Shiraz. From vines planted in 1906 on the Fechner Vineyard, matured in new French oak. Its deep colour is no more than expected from its parentage. It is a newborn, and will absorb the French oak that surrounds it now, likely taking a decade or two to do so. 14% alc, screwcap; 96 points, drink to 2050, $250

2014 Kellermeister Barossa Shiraz. From vineyards spread across the Barossa and Eden Valleys, matured in French hogsheads. It has that wild black fruits/savoury character of the Kellermeister wines that I find so attractive. One of the bargains of the year. 14.5% alc, screwcap; 94 points, drink to 2034, $20