Wine: Joe Holyman and Matt Lowe’s Stoney Rise Wine Company

Joe Holyman’s purchase of the then Rotherhythe Vineyard in Tamar Valley marked the return of the prodigal son.

Stoney Rise Holyman 2015 pinot noir, 2014 Project X pinot noir and 2015 chardonnay.

When Joe Holyman and his wife Lou bought the then Rotherhythe Vineyard in Tasmania’s Tamar Valley in 2004, it marked the return of the prodigal son. Joe’s family had planted a vineyard 20 years earlier and he grew up with wine in his blood before, footloose and fancy free, he left for the larger world of the Australian mainland. He waited on tables in restaurants, then worked for Negociants Australia as a sales rep before jumping the fence to become buyer for The Wine Society’s 50,000 members.

Next came vintage work at wineries in New Zealand, the Douro Valley, Burgundy and in 2000 Cape Jaffa Wines, where he met Lou. Along the way he did the Roseworthy marketing degree course and set a record in first-class cricket for the most catches by a wicket keeper on debut.

In 2000 Holyman and long-term friend Matt Lowe established the Stoney Rise Wine Company in Mount Benson, near Robe in South Australia’s southeast, making sauvignon blanc, Hey Hey Rosé and Cotes du Robe Shiraz. It was all fun, but Joe and Lou had their hearts set on making pinot noir and chardonnay in Tasmania and in 2003 they discovered Rotherhythe was for sale. They sealed the deal by purchasing the vineyard, and marrying, in 2004. The vineyard needed rehabilitation, with 0.75ha of chardonnay and 2.4ha of pinot noir, expanded by 0.8ha when the cabernet sauvignon was removed.

Holyman is the archetypal laconic Australian, preferring deeds to words, and only answering questions about his wines (albeit fully) if prompted. Nor does he wear biodynamic viticulture on his sleeve, even though he uses many of its practices. In ’14 he and Lou bought an adjacent 9ha block and planted 3ha of mixed pinot clones. When this comes on stream they’ll still be selling all their wine before the next vintage is ready.

2015 STONEY RISE HOLYMAN PINOT NOIR

This leaps from the glass with its perfumed red and blue fruits, then captures the palate in a split second with its array of those fruits on the one side, spicy, savoury tannins ex the 55% whole bunches on the other. 13% alc, screwcap; 96 points, drink to 2027, $50

2014 STONEY RISE HOLYMAN PROJECT X PINOT NOIR

Vividly coloured, it packs power into its 12% alcohol frame, the 100% whole bunch bouquet and palate exuding red cherry, blueberry and plum fruit easily absorbing 100% new oak. The finish has bright acidity, underwriting its future. 50 dozen made. 12% alc, screwcap; 95 points, drink to 2030, $90

2015 STONEY RISE HOLYMAN CHARDONNAY

Pale quartz-green; the wine is still in the first phase of its life, the bouquet reticent, the reduced palate tight but very long and well balanced, its future assured. Pink grapefruit and green apple have a chorus line of Tasmanian acidity, the oak likewise subdued. Will flourish with more time in bottle. 13.5% alc, screwcap; 94 points, drink to 2027, $50