Wine: Alastair Butt, Lightfoot and Tambo

This winemaker had a distinguished oenological upbringing prior to his arrival in East Gippsland.

Winemaker Alastair Butt had a distinguished oenological upbringing prior to his arrival in East Gippsland in 2007. Between 1983 and 2003 he was winemaker at Seville Estate in the Upper Yarra Valley, thus incumbent when Brokenwood (in the Hunter Valley) acquired a majority shareholding in Seville Estate in 1997.

This brought him into frequent contact with PJ Charteris, senior winemaker at Brokenwood. Another was Matt Harrop, then establishing Shadowfax in Geelong. Butt says these two taught him much about the last step in a process beginning with the grapes in the vineyard, then fermentation and maturation, and finally — and most importantly — deciding which barrels should be used in a particular wine. A difference of only one or two per cent in a blend may be all important, the lesson for the future lying in the precise history of each of the barrels involved.

In 2003 ownership of Seville Estate changed again, and Alastair (and wife Julie) decided to become a winemaking consultant and contractor. So it was that he arrived in Gippsland in 2007 to make the wines of Lightfoot & Sons and Tambo Estate, three hours’ drive from Melbourne.

The grapes for the Myrtle Point Chardonnay were picked over two weeks, reflecting different ripening patterns for clones and/or vineyard blocks. Free-run juice and light pressings were fermented in French oak with a mix of wild and cultured yeast, a small portion undergoing mlf. The Tambo grapes were hand-picked and sorted, chilled overnight, whole bunch-pressed direct to French oak with full solids for fermentation and 14 months maturation on firm lees. The Cliff Block Pinot Noir is estate-grown on an exposed limestone bluff; it was hand-picked, 30% left as whole bunches, 70% destemmed, open-fermented and matured for 10 months in French puncheons.

2016 Lightfoot & Sons Myrtle Point Vineyard Gippsland Chardonnay

Attention to detail in both the vineyard and winery has paid dividends: this combines elegance and intensity, balance and length. White peach and citrussy acidity soar on the finish, lingering on the very long aftertaste. All class. 13.2% alc, screwcap

95 points, drink to 2028, $28

2015 Lightfoot & Sons Cliff Block Gippsland Pinot Noir

Very good depth to the colour; this has the potential to become wonderfully complex over the years. In the meantime, its intense black cherry fruit, with a savoury fringe, commands respect. This is already great, but hums with potential. 13% alc, screwcap

95 points, drink to 2030, $50

2015 Tambo Estate Reserve Gippsland Lakes Chardonnay

A striking wine of very high quality, with flavours of white peach, nectarine and a twist of limey acidity, the oak extract exactly positioned in support. It’s the attention to detail that makes it special. 13.3% alc, screwcap

97 points, drink to 2028, $48