Chicken surprise

ROAST chicken, in all its simplicity, is a glorious thing. But as good as the basic version is, it's fun to ring the changes.

ROAST chicken, in all its simplicity, is a glorious thing. But as good as the basic version is, it's fun to ring the changes.

The secret to getting the skin really crisp is to leave the chicken uncovered in the fridge for eight hours before cooking; this ensures the skin will be moisture-free. Don't be put off by the amount of ingredients in the tandoori recipe as most are readily available and the method is very easy. I prefer to use a jointed chicken or chicken pieces for the tandoori version. For any of these recipes, you can check if the chicken is cooked by piercing the flesh between the thigh and leg: if the juices run clear, it's cooked. Remember to let the meat rest for 10 minutes before carving.

CRISPY-SKIN ROAST CHICKEN
1 large chicken
1 teaspoon each chopped thyme and rosemary leaves
1/2 lemon

Boil a large kettle of water and pour it over chicken. Pat dry, inside and out, with paper towels. Place uncovered in the fridge for 8 hours, then pat dry again. From the edge of the cavity, slip a finger under the skin of each breast, then use your fingers to loosen the skin from the meat. Tuck herbs up under skin, being careful not to tear it. Season chicken with plenty of salt and pepper. Tuck half a lemon into cavity. Heat oven to 220C. Place chicken (breast side up) in a roasting tin and cook for 15 minutes, then reduce temperature to 180C and cook for a further 50-55 minutes or until cooked and golden. Serves 4-6

And to drink...

Back in the old days, sick of the blokes boozing at the Beefsteak and Burgundy, the sheilas set up their own wine society and called it the Chicken and Chablis Club. Right now, the 2009 William Fevre Petit Chablis ($27) is a good, fairly widely available example of this classic French dry white style.

TANDOORI ROASTED CHICKEN

4-6 chicken marylands or chicken pieces
3/4 cup natural yoghurt
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 eshallot, finely chopped
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon garam masala
2 teaspoons paprika
1 teaspoon chilli powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon tomato paste

Rinse chicken pieces and dry well with paper towels, then place in a ceramic dish. Combine remaining ingredients and pour over chicken pieces. Cover and refrigerate for 6-8 hours, turning occasionally. Preheat oven to 230C. Place chicken pieces, skin side up, in a rack set over a roasting tin (it's a good idea to put some baking paper in the tin to prevent any excess marinade catching). Roast for about 20 minutes, then brush with any remaining marinade and roast for a further 10-15 minutes (depending on portion size), or until cooked and golden. Serve with chutney. Serves 4-6

And to drink...

I have tried all sorts of wine matches with tandoori chook, and while a good aromatic white such as gewurz or viognier can work, I reckon a better match is a full-flavoured ale such as the Yarra Valley Gold ($4) from Grand Ridge Brewery.

CHICKEN ROASTED WITH FLAVOURED BUTTERS

1 large chicken, rinsed and patted dry
100g butter, softened but not melted
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme plus 3 large sprigs
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary plus 3 small sprigs
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
Finely grated zest 1/2 lemon

Preheat oven to 200C. Use a wooden spoon to beat together butter, herbs and lemon zest. From the edge of the cavity, slip a finger under the skin of each breast, then use your fingers to loosen skin from the meat. With your fingers, spread some of the herb butter mixture under the skin. Make sure it gets spread around over the breast meat, being careful not to tear skin. Spread remaining butter on the outside of chicken. Stuff cavity with thyme and rosemary sprigs. Tie legs together with twine, and tuck wings under. Place chicken (breast side up) in a roasting tin and cook for 15 minutes, then reduce temperature to 180C and cook for a further 50-55 minutes, basting occasionally with juices, until cooked and golden. Serves 4-6

And to drink...

All that buttery richness but all that herby perfume, too ... A crisp, herbaceous-tasting white wine that has seen some fattening time in oak is what you need here: the 2007 Suckfizzle Sauvignon Semillon ($45) from Margaret River is a lovely, complex expression of what I'm talking about.