20 whites under $20

Plenty of reislings and chardonnays among this year’s bargain whites, but a Pokolbin semillon takes the top points.

 

A.T. Richardson Chockstone Grampians Riesling 2016

Classic Grampians riesling, starting quietly on the bouquet then building intensity and depth as the length of the palate unrolls to reveal itself. While the boundaries are firmly marked by lime and Meyer lemon fruit, there’s complexity to burn on the playing field.

94 points, $18

screwcap, 12% alc

drink to 2031

atrichardsonwines.com

Jim Barry Watervale Riesling 2016

One of the first out of the blocks for ’16. Jim Barry’s Clare Valley rieslings have exceptionally low pH, starting as low as 2.86, and acidity as high as 7.3g/l. This is a vibrantly alive wine, with vivid lime and mineral flavours on the long palate. Drink it now or 10 years hence. Value++.

94 points, $19

screwcap, 12% alc

drink to 2029

jimbarry.com

St Hallett Eden Valley Riesling 2016

Pale straw-green; citrus and a hint of passionfruit on the bouquet narrow into a clear stream of lime juice and slatey acidity on the bracing finish and aftertaste of the palate. The balance of the wine guarantees it will richly repay patience, even if it is only for a year or two.

92 points, $19

screwcap, 11% alc

drink to 2028

sthallett.com.au

Riposte The Scimitar Clare Valley Riesling 2016

Lime and apple blossom aromas lead into a dazzling pure and crisp palate, finely etched acidity driving the long finish and cleansing aftertaste. A 10-year outlook may be way short of the mark, but either way, it’s an automatic choice for any BYO Asian restaurant.

94 points, $20

screwcap, 11.5% alc

drink to 2026

timknappstein.com.au

SEMILLON & BLENDS

De Iuliis Hunter Valley Semillon 2016

The basic semillon release for ’16 by De Iuliis, but a gold medal winner at this year’s Sydney Wine Show. The crossover with one-year-old riesling can confuse, but the acidity is more pronounced, the lemongrass notes are peculiar to semillon and, as they age, the wines will adopt different personalities.

95 points, $19.95

screwcap, 10.9% alc

drink to 2031

dewine.com.au

Chateau Francois Pokolbin Semillon 2013

This wine has barely moved over the past two years. It possesses great length and dazzling, crunchy acidity to go with the lemongrass and citrus fruits. As the years go by, hints of honey will appear, the acidity changing shape, providing freshness and length.

96 points, $19.99

screwcap, 11% alc

drink to 2028

SAUVIGNON BLANC & BLENDS

Mike Press Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2016

Sub-$20 sauvignon blancs often wobble around the mouth with vague tropical fruits, neither seeking nor delivering pause for thought. This has vital cut and thrust to its array of snow pea, gooseberry and guava flavours, the package neatly tied by no-nonsense acidity.

91 points, $12

screwcap, 13.9% alc

drink to 2017

mikepresswines.com.au

McLeish Estate Hunter Valley Adelaide Hills Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2015

Hunter Valley semillon and cool-climate Adelaide Hills sauvignon blanc is one of several variations of the blend. This one hits the spot: vibrant, fresh and zesty, with citrus notes to the fore, tropical nuances the backdrop. A classic each-way bet.

93 points, $18

screwcap, 11% alc

drink to 2018

mcleishhunterwines.com.au

Stella Bella Skuttlebutt Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2016

Sauvignon blanc has always managed to invest Skuttlebutt with an extra coat or two of rich fruit, with passionfruit, guava, Meyer lemon and cut grass creating a daisy chain of flavours. This takes on Marlborough’s sauvignon blanc on its own terms.

94 points, $18

screwcap, 13.3% alc

drink to 2017

stellabella.com.au

West Cape Howe Mount Barker Sauvignon Blanc 2016

From the estate’s very large, mature Langton Vineyard, a wine with structure, texture and length, cool-fermented in stainless steel. Its flavours are on a herbal, citrus and gooseberry spectrum, the finish with a snap, crackle and pop burst of cleansing acidity.

92 points, $20

screwcap, 13.3% alc

drink to 2017

westcapehowewines.com.au

McHenry Hohnen Vintners Rocky Road Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2015

Very complex, layered flavours and texture. 69% semillon, 31% sauvignon blanc, part wild barrel-fermented, part in stainless steel. Giveaway price for a high-quality wine that pushes the envelope hard but stops before tearing it.

95 points, $20

screwcap, 12.8% alc

drink to 2020

mchenryhohnen.com.au

CHARDONNAY

Mike Press Single Vineyard Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2016

At this price it is inconceivable the wine should have inhabited a barrel, no matter how old, but there is a savoury bite adding texture to the palate – the result of skin contact, perhaps. Press again achieves the impossible.

89 points, $12

screwcap, 14% alc

drink to 2021

mikepresswines.com.au

Yering Station Little Yering Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2013

This is the entry point for Yering Station, a celebration of the synergy of region and variety. It has spent some time in French oak and is very tempting at this price, its varietal authenticity and length never in doubt. Has a year or two in front of it.

92 points, $18

screwcap, 13% alc

drink to 2016

yering.com

Houghton Crofters Pemberton Margaret River Chardonnay 2014

A vigorous and disciplined wine, the two regions of WA made as one; pink grapefruit and a glaze of white peach lead the way, oak trailing behind and at this price playing a limited role. Great value for a smart chardonnay.

92 points, $18.99

screwcap, 13.5% alc

drink to 2020

houghton-wines.com.au

Burch Family MadFish Gold Turtle Margaret River Chardonnay 2016

Picked precisely on the cusp of ripeness and barrel-fermented, the wine’s complexity doesn’t compromise the white peach and nectarine fruit. The natural acidity gives shape and length to a chardonnay that’s beguiling at any price, let alone $20.

92 points, $20

screwcap, 13% alc

drink to 2020

burchfamilywines.com.au

Evans & Tate Butterball Margaret River Chardonnay 2016

Matured but seemingly not fermented in oak, the expansive and seductive array of white peach, nectarine and a wisp of fig make additional oak redundant. The name is appropriate, even though it isn’t really what chardonnay should be about. Yes, I like the wine.

92 points, $20

screwcap, 13% alc

drink to 2021

evansandtate.com.au

Hoddles Creek Estate Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2015

Sits comfortably alongside its pinot noir sibling, with the same attention to detail and similar over-delivery against price expectations. White peach, melon, grapefruit and French oak are spun so tightly together it’s hard to weigh up their individual contributions.

95 points, $20

screwcap, 13.2% alc

drink to 2025

hoddlescreekestate.com.au

OTHER WHITES

Trentham Estate The Family Vermentino 2015

Machine-picked at night, immediately crushed and pressed, fermented with cultured yeast, bottled in August. Crushed kaffir lime leaves and lemon rind aromas, then a vibrant citrus and green apple palate. Vermentino is here to stay with 1840 tonnes crushed in 2015 and more on the way.

92 points, $15

screwcap, 12% alc

drink to 2017

trenthamestate.com.au

Yalumba Y Series Pinot Grigio 2016

“Wild-fermented and vegan friendly” says the label, and the palate has more to say than that of many pinot grigios, especially at this price. There are spicy notes redolent of cinnamon, and a strong, tactile grip to the fruit. Honeyed notes lurking in the background may develop over the next 12-24 months. Value+.

89 points, $15

screwcap, 12.5% alc

drink to 2017

yalumba.com

Serafino Bellissimo Fiano 2016

Light, bright straw-green; there’s no question fiano produces wines with an unusual personality. Brightness and freshness cohabit with lemon zest flavours that carry enough weight to accompany any dish – now or with a year or two of bottle age.

90 points, $20

screwcap, 13% alc

drink to 2020

serafinowines.com.au

113 wines submitted

The correlation between variety and region followed a predictable course – a thoroughly good thing. Thus the rieslings came from moderately cool inland districts with cold nights the key; semillon from the Hunter Valley; sauvignon blanc and blends mainly from WA, only the Adelaide Hills disputing naming rights; that ever-compliant variety chardonnay shining in the coolest parts; and three alternative varieties left to muddy the waters.

The best of the rest

St John’s Road Peace of Eden

Riesling 2016 92, $19

West Cape Howe Mount Barker

Riesling 2016 91, $20

Amelia Park Trellis Margaret

River Sauvignon Blanc

Semillon 2016 89, $15

Printhie Mountain Range Orange

Sauvignon Blanc 2015 92, $19

Thomas Synergy Vineyard Selection

Hunter Valley Semillon 2016 90, $20

Hay Shed Hill Pitchfork Margaret

River Chardonnay 2016 90, $17

Watershed Premium Shades

Margaret River Unoaked

Chardonnay 2015 90, $19

Warner Glen Estate Margaret River

Chardonnay 2015 90, $20

Trentham Estate Verdejo 2015 89, $16

McLeish Estate Hunter Valley Semillon

Chardonnay 2014 91, $20